Among the European capitals, Rome is certainly the most stratified. Wherever you go, there's a high chance you'll encounter an Ancient Roman ruin or a church with an Ancient Roman ruin below it.... or a Baroque church with a medieval church and some Roman ruins below it!
Monti Neighborhood, also known as Rione Monti I, is the first and largest district of Rome, with a territory that includes masterworks of art such as St. John Lateran, the Basilica of Santa Maria Maggiore and that of San Clemente, breathtaking archeological excavations such as the Fora of Trajan and Augustus, but also an intricate route of narrow and cobbled streets, lively squares, and lots of things to do.
In this guide, you'll find everything you need to discover Monti Neighborhood: useful facts, history, an interactive map, suggestions for first- and second-timers, an itinerary, answers to common questions, guided tours, a detailed list of all the main attractions and sights, and an address book to dive deep into this amazing district!
In this article:
Rione Monti in Rome: Overview
Rione Monti in Rome: History and Itinerary
Rione Monti in Rome: What to See and to Do
Rione Monti in Rome: Overview
INTRODUCTION: WHAT IS A RIONE?
The word rione is now pretty common in the Italian language. If you hear it, the first thing that comes to your mind is a town, usually an old one (probably a medieval village), of which the rione is intended as a quartier, a neighborhood. But in Rome, the rioni had their own history, which later contributed to this very concept.
Rione comes from the Roman dialect and likely means region - indeed, in ancient times Rome was divided into fourteen so-called regiones (regions in Latin), created by the Roman Emperor Augustus (27BCE - 14CE).
After the fall of the Roman Empire, Rome experienced a period of profound distress. Once an imperial capital with one million+ inhabitants, during the Middle Ages it was reduced to no more than a small town, which ancient city walls and imponent buildings entirely lost their utility. This tiny community ended up living all scattered across the territory once occupied by the Romans, with large gaps filled by fields, vineyards, and farms.
Around the 11th century CE, when the population began to slowly grow again, the inhabited areas were called rioni, although their borders remained undefined for a long time.
Over the centuries, Rome would change continuously, reaching a peak in its Baroque era (late 16th-early 18th century) and again after it became Italy's capital in 1871. The rioni changed with her, they adjusted their borders and names but survived all major restorations and urban plans. Today, they are a characteristic of the historic center and every single one retains its peculiar history and soul.
ABOUT MONTI NEIGHBORHOOD AND HOW TO GET THERE
Monti is Rome's largest rione and one of the most popular and renowned among both locals and tourists.
As you can see from the map above, its area is quite extended and covers an immense pool of artistic, archeological, and architectural treasures. It goes up to Trajan's Column (so beyond the Colosseum) and reaches the church of Santo Stefano Rotondo, so that it would take one more than 30 minutes on foot to cross it (without diversions or stops, of course).
It also peculiarly divides a few areas that we are used to consider together: the Forums area is split in two at Imperial Forums Street, so that Augustus' and Trajan's Forums are part of Monti, while the Roman Forum and the Colosseum stay outside it. This division is the result of centuries of unstable borders and uncertainties.
Today, Monti Neighborhood is the perfect destination for tourists, as it hosts a few of the most amazing marvels Rome has to offer: St. John Lateran, Santa Maria Maggiore, San Clemente, the Imperial Forums. But it is also loved by locals and students: the streets around Santa Maria Maggiore Basilica (Urbana Street, Panisperna Street, Madonna dei Monti Square) are a popular meeting point for nightlife, artisanal shops and traditional restaurants.
How to Get to Monti Neighborhood
Rione Monti is located in the very center of Rome, so reaching it won't be too difficult! This is an overview of your options:
From the airport: if you are staying in Monti, this is how you can reach it from the main Roman airports. ➜ From Fiumicino Airport, you can book a transfer to your hotel here, or a bus/train ticket to Termini Railway Station using Omio here. This should take you around 30-50 minutes depending on your final destination. ➜ From Ciampino Airport, you can book a transfer to your hotel here, or purchase a bus/train ticket to Termini Railway Station using Omio here. In this case, the airport is slightly closer, so it should take you 30 minutes.
From Termini Railway Station: if you arrive in Rome by train or from the airport by bus/train, you'll be at Termini Railway Station. From here, Santa Maria Maggiore Basilica is just a 5-minute walk distance, while for St. John Lateran you can take metro A, for the Forums area you can take bus 40/64 or metro B.
By metro: Monti is literally crossed by the metro system. Santa Maria Maggiore and St. John Lateran areas are covered by metro A, while San Pietro in Vincoli and the Forums area are touched by metro B.
By bus: there are several buses covering Monti neighborhood, so you can be sure to easily reach the area even if your hotel is not close to a metro station. Take bus 81 to reach Santo Stefano Rotondo Church, the closest metro station is 15 minutes away.
FAQ AND USEFUL INFO
➊ What is the best way to visit Monti Neighborhood? Regardless of the rione, cities like Rome should always be visited on foot! There are so many places you may not have the time to visit but you can still see if you walk - Rome literally hides gems everywhere, so that would be perfect. However, Monti Neighborhood is quite extended, so you may decide to visit it area by area: reach one area by bus/metro, walk around there, then move to another area again by metro/bus.
➊ Should first-timers in Rome visit Monti Neighborhood? Yes! First-timers may not have the time to see it all on their first visit, but going there is definitely something I would recommend. If you have three days or less, you may choose one area (Forums, Santa Maria Maggiore, St. John Lateran, San Clemente, etc), if you have five days or more, you can consider spending 1-2 days here.
➊ When is the best moment to visit Monti Neighborhood? As for Rome in general, the best time to visit Rione Monti is winter (best moment: warm weather, often sunny), spring (warm and beautiful, but more crowded), or fall. Summers are super hot in Rome and walking around with the crowds can be distressing.
➊ How much time should you spend visiting Rione Monti? To visit it all + visit all its museums and landmarks, it may take you several days. At times, you may feel the need to go back to one place to see it again. Generally, I'd recommend spending at least one day in Monti (for first-timers and second-timers).
➊ Is Rione Monti accessible or easily visitable with kids? Yes, but with some restrictions. All Ancient Roman sites and a few churches will be below street level, and not always equipped with the right tools to make them accessible. A place like San Clemente Basilica includes an underground visit, and that can be complicated for both kids (gloomy, dark, many uneven steps) and people with reduced mobility. The same goes for the Domus Aurea and other places. Apart from that, if you can be flexible on what to visit, Rione Monti has much to offer and is a lively neighborhood with activities for everyone.
➊ Is there any attraction/museum you should book in advance? Yes. I'd recommend booking in advance the following (click on the names to book your tickets): Domus Aurea, Imperial Forums (with Colosseum), Lateran Palace, Palazzo del Quirinale.
➊ Is it safe to visit Monti Neighborhood? Rome is crowded with pickpocketers and it's not infrequent to hear of petty crimes. However, with a few precautions like keeping your valuables always well-stored, Rione Monti is safe to visit. I've never felt uneasy, day or night alike.
➊ NEED HELP WITH YOUR ROME TRIP? Let me craft a customized itinerary for you or create a list of curated recommendations according to your tastes, preferences, and travel party! Check the Services page here
Rione Monti in Rome: History and Itinerary
HISTORY OF MONTI NEIGHBORHOOD
First, the name: "Monti" comes from the fact that this rione once included several of the seven Roman hills (in Italian: colli, but also monti). Today, the Esquiline, the Viminal, and the Quirinal are part of Monti Neighborhood, together with part of the Caelian (Celio). The rione's coat of arms is silver-colored with three hills repeated three times to form a triangle.
Monti's history is unique, as its inhabitants once spoke their own dialect and had a strong sense of identity. Being the largest rione, Monti encompassed several fields and vineyards, leading its population to feel quite isolated from other communities.
Initially, Monti was a full-fledged part of Ancient Rome, which is why today it is rich in archaeological gems. Its core was the Suburra, the lively district of Ancient Rome inhabited by commoners (the plebeians), where large families lived together in huge residential blocks surrounded by markets, inns, and brothels. Julius Caesar (100–44 BCE) was also born in this area.
In Ancient Rome, Monti was densely populated. However, during the Middle Ages, it became largely deserted. This depopulation occurred because much of the area was occupied by now-useless Roman ruins, and access to water was limited due to the disruption of Roman aqueducts and wells. Additionally, the area gradually lost prominence after St. John Lateran, once the papal seat and heart of Rome's political life, was abandoned. Over time, the popes began to view St. John as peripheral and unsafe, eventually moving their court to the Vatican.
Fortunately, during the Renaissance, Monti experienced a revival. The popes once again directed their attention to St. John Lateran, which had become a center of pilgrimage, and to the surrounding territory, full of ancient churches and Roman ruins that began to attract the curiosity and awe of both locals and wanderers. Its population grew again, and by the late 1800s, when Rome became Italy's capital and underwent massive renewal, the fields and vineyards had almost entirely disappeared, replaced by housing.
The 19th-century developments, with their broad boulevards and massive palaces, disrupted much of Monti's medieval layout, which had already been altered by the popes during the Modern era. However, today Monti is celebrated as one of the most authentic and characteristic Roman neighborhoods, known for its narrow streets, ancient churches, lively squares, and hipster vibes.
INTERACTIVE MAP OF RIONE MONTI
Just a quick look at the map below makes it clear how much there's to see and visit in Monti Neighborhood - and this doesn't include things to do, restaurants, cafés, shops, and hotels - which you can find in the dedicated address book to Monti!
Anyway, the map should help you navigate through this heritage immensity! Open it in full screen if needed (click/tap on the button in the top right corner) or check the full list by clicking/tapping on the button in the top left corner:
Here's an overview of what you'll find:
RED: Ancient Roman sites
YELLOW: Churches, basilicas and monasteries
BLUE: Palaces, villas, medieval towers
GREEN: Squares and streets
ITINERARY AND TIPS FOR VISITING RIONE MONTI
Suggested Itinerary
● Duration: half a day (with no or few visits) or one day
● Suggested Starting Point: Basilica of Santa Maria Maggiore
If you are a first-timer in Rome and you've seen nothing at all or a second-timer who missed much of Monti during your first visit, you can easily spend one day exploring the Rione. It won't be enough to see it all, but enough to see all its highlights (in terms of historical and artistic significance).
MORNING: Start from Santa Maria Maggiore (a 5-minute walk from Termini Station), a papal basilica that will leave you breathless. Explore the surrounding area for hipster vibes, narrow streets, and elegant palaces (Via Urbana - Via Sforza - Via Panisperna - Piazza degli Zingari - Salita dei Borgia - Piazza della Madonna dei Monti). If you wish, visit the Church of Santa Prassede, a beautiful shrine with impressive medieval mosaics. Once you reach Piazza della Madonna dei Monti, move towards the Basilica of San Pietro in Vincoli, where you can admire Michelangelo's Moses. At this point, you have two options: walk your way to St. John Lateran and pass through Via delle Sette Sale, see Palazzo Brancaccio and take Via Merulana until you reach Piazza San Giovanni in Laterano; or take metro B at stop Cavour, then change to metro A and reach St. John this way. End your morning with a visit to the masterpiece Archbasilica of Saint John Lateran.
➊ READ NEXT: Complete guide to the Archbasilica of Saint John Lateran - the cathedral church of Rome
AFTERNOON: Time to explore again! Suppose you're still in Piazza San Giovanni in Laterano. In that case, you can walk to the Basilica of San Clemente, a breathtaking example of Rome's stratification with its three-level structure. Once you're done, you can move towards the Colosseum area: notice the Ludus Magnus on your way there - it's where gladiators used to train for their spectacles. Admire the Colosseum and take the majestic Via dei Fori Imperiali: you can have one of the best views of the Western World's civilization from here. In Via dei Fori Imperiali you can access the Forums Area with Trajan's Forum and Trajan's Markets, Roman Forum, and Augustus' Forum (you can visit them all with Roma Pass - buy it here). End your day with a full view of Trajan's Column.
First-Timers and Second-Timers: a few Suggestions
If you wish to create your own itinerary but don't know what you should prioritize, here is an overview of the main attractions and landmarks and whether they deserve a spot in your first Rome trip:
Forum of Augustus (first timer - second timer)
Forum of Trajan and Markets (first timer - second timer)
Domus Aurea (first timer - second timer)
St. John Lateran (first timer - second timer)
Lateran Baptistery and Lateran Palace (first timer - second timer)
Basilica of San Pietro in Vincoli (first timer - second timer)
Basilica of San Clemente (first timer- second timer)
Basilica of Santo Stefano Rotondo (first timer - second timer)
Basilica di Santa Prassede (first timer - second timer)
Basilica of Santa Maria Maggiore (first timer - second timer)
Piazza del Quirinale (first timer - second timer)
Palazzo Brancaccio (first timer - second timer)
Palazzo Koch (first timer - second timer)
House of the Knights of Rhodes (first timer - second timer)
Guided Tour Suggestions
If you wish a professional guide to walk through Monti while you visit Rome's highlights, here are a few guided tours and activities I selected for you. They include Rione Monti's main attractions:
General Tours:
Underground and Ancient Rome Tour (3 hours)
Rome’s Best: Historical Centre Tour (2.5 hours)
Rome: Evening Walking Tour (2.5 hours)
Rione Monti-focused Tours:
Private Tour of Rione Monti (2.15 hours)
Basilicas-focused Tours:
Rome: Tour of St. Clement's Basilica (1 hour)
Foodie Tours:
Wine Tasting Tour in Rome around Rione Monti (3.5 hours)
Rome: Monti District and Wine Experience (3 hours)
Activities Tours:
Rome: Highlights Electric Vehicle Tour (1.5 hours)
➊ NEED HELP WITH YOUR ROME TRIP? Let me craft a customized itinerary for you or create a list of curated recommendations according to your tastes, preferences, and travel party! Check the Services page here
Rione Monti in Rome: What to See and Things to Do
SQUARES AND STREETS
Piazza San Giovanni in Laterano
● Check: St. John Lateran, Lateran Palace, Lateran Baptistery, Scala Sancta
Technically, not everything in this square belongs to Monti, the Rione's borders cut it in two! And yet, once here, divisions of this kind become trivial.
Piazza San Giovanni in Laterano takes its name from the Archbasilica of St. John Lateran (San Giovanni in Laterano), and it's easily one of the most important squares in Rome. It's where processions, solemn funerals, and events take place, for it once hosted the official seat of the Popes and still hosts a few of the most holy and sacred buildings of Christianity.
If you're here, prioritize St. John Lateran, the absolute protagonist. Then check the Scala Sancta (supposedly the very stair walked by Jesus Christ during his Passion), the Baptistery, and the Lateran Palace if you have enough time. Don't leave without noticing the Obelisk, a 15th-century BCE work by Pharaoh Thutmose III brought to Rome by Emperor Constantius II, Constantine's son, and to Piazza San Giovanni by Pope Sixtus V on August 3, 1588.
Nearby
Via della Ferratella: taking this name from a grid (inferriata in Italian) through which one could see the ancient St. John Hospital
Piazza di Santa Maria Maggiore
● Check: Basilica of Santa Maria Maggiore
Not necessarily the most beautiful Roman square, mostly for its surroundings, Piazza Santa Maria Maggiore is still unmissable, for it hosts one of the main churches of Christianity: the Papal Basilica of Santa Maria Maggiore.
Also, in the square there's a Roman column, facing the Basilica directly: it comes from the Maxentius Basilica, the last Roman basilica to be ever built in the city (so not meant for Christian use but for civil purposes) in 312 CE. It was moved here in 1614 by Carlo Maderno, who also designed its current pedestal and the fountain.
This square is the perfect starting point for your Rione Monti itinerary and for the exploration of the nearby area!
Piazza della Madonna dei Monti
● Check: Church of Santa Maria dei Monti, Church of Ss. Sergio and Bacco
This nice little piazza is the quintessential Monti Neighborhood square and the one that most embodies the soul of the rione: a place where locals are still the majority, where to get off the beaten track and get lost in the narrow streets around with their shops, restaurants, cafés, and - of course - churches! It gets more lively at night when youngsters gather here to enjoy the warm Roman evenings.
The square itself is worth a throughout check: it hosts two churches, Santa Maria dei Monti and Ss. Sergio and Bacco (taken care of by the Ukrainian community), and a fountain - the Fontana dei Catecumeni (Cathecumens' Fountain), so-called because once close to a college for neophytes. All around are Baroquish and Renaissant buildings, a typical Roman view.
Nearby
Via Panisperna: today, Romans and tourists go here for its foodie offer, but originally it was mostly residential. It hosted a Physics Institute, renowned because there Enrico Fermi took his first scientific steps.
Via Urbana: its name comes from Pope Urban VIII, who carried out major expansion and renovation works in the 17th century. Today, it's a characteristic narrow and colorful street you should not miss.
Via del Boschetto: flower-filled buildings, colorful houses, and lots of trattorie. It's called this way because it once hosted a veritable elm forest with gardens and vineyards.
Via degli Zingari: together with Piazza degli Zingari, it represents the area where nomadic gypsy communities used to reside when in Rome. Today, it's the heart of the Rione and bursts with nice shops and restaurants.
Salita dei Borgia: a much-popular spot for Monti's nightlife, this stairway has been claimed by wild nature and is called this way because it once hosted buildings belonged to the Borgia family - we are now in the core of the ancient Suburra.
Via del Pozzuolo: this one narrow and short street hosts medieval houses - you can easily spot them. At its corner is the Church of San Salvatore ai Monti, a silent witness of the Sack of Rome in 1527 that destroyed it. This area was harshly involved in the sack. Today many of the buildings are covered by graffiti and it's not always super clean around, but it's safe and a walk here is definitely recommended.
Villa Aldobrandini and Gardens
Rione Monti is a beautiful place to be but despite its past as an area with scarce population and lots of fields and farms, today it doesn't give much space to green spaces.
Villa Aldobrandini is a rare exception and its gardens are located on the top of the villa itself, an ancient aristocratic possession now not visible. This is easily the best place to go to escape the Roman tourist crowds and enjoy a rare moment of relaxation on a frantic exploration day!
Access Villa Aldobrandini from via Mazzarino. Look for the Roman ruins behind an iron gate, that's the entrance. However, know that as of December 2024, the gardens are temporarily closed for renovation! Also, note that access occurs only via stairs.
Piazza del Quirinale
● Check: Palazzo del Quirinale, Scuderie del Quirinale, Palazzo della Consulta
And that's it - an airy square surrounded by architectural marvels, a common sight for Rome. Like Piazza San Giovanni in Laterano, this square too is divided between two rioni, Monti and Trevi.
Piazza del Quirinale takes its name from the hill it tops, the Quirinal. It's also where you can see the Quirinale Palace, the official residence of the Italian Republic's President, and it's therefore a vital center of Italian politics. The Palace is a majestic late-Renaissant building, completed in 1583, and the work of Domenico Fontana and Carlo Maderno. You can visit it by reserving a spot here (do this in advance as spots are limited).
From the square, you can also access the Scuderie del Quirinale, a 1700s building. It hosts large exhibitions, often dedicated to great Italian (but not exclusively) art masters. You can buy tickets here.
The central area is dominated by the Fontana dei Dioscuri, designed by Raffaele Stern in 1818 and including an obelisk coming from Augustus' Mausoleum, and Ancient Roman statues (2nd-3rd century CE).
CHURCHES
Archbasilica of Saint John Lateran
● Tickets: free entry - ticket for the cloister (buy it on-site or visit all Lateran buildings with this pass)
● Best to See: Papal Tombs, Apostles Statues, Cappella Corsini
St. John Lateran is no less than the mother church of all Catholic Christianity, the oldest church in the Western World, and the first official seat of the Papacy.
First inaugurated in 324 CE and commissioned by Roman Emperor Constantine, St. John is today a 5-nave basilica with majestic Baroque interiors and a bright Neoclassic façade. Inside are infinite art masterpieces, including twelve gigantic marble statues of the Apostles designed by Carlo Maratta and placed in niches by Borromini. Going through the lateral naves, one encounters opulent papal tombs, impressive architectural mastery, and remnants of a remote past, like a portion of a Giotto's (1267-1337) fresco.
You can discover all the treasures St. John hides behind its portals by checking out this complete guide to San Giovanni in Laterano which includes a guided tour!
Basilica of Santa Maria Maggiore
● Tickets: free entry - some areas need a ticket you can buy on-site
● Best to See: Cycles of mosaics, Sistina and Paolina chapels
This incredible basilica is, together with St. John, a papal basilica, a most holy place directly linked to the Pope. There are four in total and they are all in Rome.
The basilica was founded by Pope Sixtus III (432-446) to honor the Virgin Mary, but of course, what we see now is the result of centuries of renovations and modifications. With 85 meters (278ft) in length, Santa Maria Maggiore is a monumental church where every single inch is worth a check.
Among the infinite treasures, notice the cycle of mosaics. Those in the triumphal arch and nave date back to the 5th century, while later works, such as the apse mosaics by Jacopo Torriti, were added in the 13th century. Check the coffered ceiling, gilded with the first gold brought from the Americas: the Spanish monarchs who commissioned the expedition wished to thank the Virgin Mary for its success and thus donated the gold to the most preeminent church in the world dedicated to her. Lastly (but there'd be much more), check the Paolina and Sistina Chapels for some amazing treasures.
Basilica of San Clemente
● Tickets: full price 10€ (buy yours here)
● Best to See: Upper Basilica, Lower Basilica, Roman ruins
Not to sound biased, but this is easily one of the most beautiful places I've seen in Rome! The Basilica is incredible because it summarizes the city's complex history with its stratifications, showing its path from the glorious Classic era, through the Middle Ages and until our times. You need a ticket to visit the basilica, which is uncommon for a church in Rome, but let me say with confidence that you'll not regret the purchase!
You start with a visit to the Upper Basilica - an impressive and rare example of church structure that stopped being common after the Middle Ages. This basilica presents some incredible features like 12th-century mosaics, but the best is yet to come.
The Upper Basilica is only the last piece of San Clemente's history and came after the Lower Basilica, now called this way because it lies well below street level and you need to descend underground to see it. A 4th-century church awaits you there, with beautiful medieval frescoes dating back to before this place was abandoned in the 1100s.
And then, going deeper down you discover some amazing Roman ruins (2nd century), including a Mithraic temple and some public alleys and buildings. Here the air is thick and humid, but this won't hamper your visit!
Unfortunately, there are lots of stairs, narrow passages, and uneven steps in San Clemente. Consider this before going if you are a person with reduced mobility or if you travel with toddlers.
Basilica of San Pietro in Vincoli
● Tickets: free entry
● Best to See: Michelangelo's Moses
You may know that Rome often hosts major masterpieces inside its masterpiece churches. And that's the case of San Pietro in Vincoli, which name means "St. Peter in Chains" and refers to the chains - believed to be the ones that imprisoned the Apostle - safely kept in the Basilica.
This interesting church already existed under Pope Sixtus III (432-440), but now it shows the signs of several renovations. Today, it is one of those puzzle-churches where every single inch hides a secret and comes from a different epoch! The façade is the first surprise: it's enclosed in a Renaissant portico.
The star of San Pietro in Vincoli is Michelangelo's Moses (1515), located at the end of the right nave. Originally meant to be part of the monumental tomb of Pope Julius II (1503-1513), the Moses is a spectacle by itself and despite having never served its original purpose (Julius II is buried in the Vatican), it's a good reason to visit the church today.
Basilica of Santa Prassede
● Tickets: free entry
● Best to See: Medieval mosaics
Praxedes is not a common name. In fact, it comes from the late Roman Empire, when a girl named this way became a martyr. She was the daughter of a Roman senator and the legend goes that St. Peter himself converted her family to Christianity, which at the time was still illegal.
The three-nave church has existed since the 5th century, but the majority of what we see now comes from the early Middle Ages with several Baroque and Rococo touches. Particularly interesting, and alone worth a visit, are the 9th-century mosaics of the presbytery and the apse. These are a true rarity, and if you are a fan of medieval art or just curious, go take a look because you may not find many more around.
Basilica of Santa Pudenziana
● Tickets: free entry
● Best to See: Late-Roman mosaics, Marian Oratory
That of Praxedes was a holy family. Pudentiana was her sister and, like her, she was martyrized for her Christian faith in a period when this latter was illegal. You'll find many stories like these around Rome, obviously because the persecutions were stronger here, in the imperial capital.
One thing about this church tells you that its foundation must be remote: it lies below street level. Indeed, you are in front of one of the most ancient churches in Rome, possibly the most ancient! Anyway, as always, the current form is much more recent, with several parts coming from a 16th-century renovation by Francesco da Volterra, and an 1870 façade.
But the treasures lie within. First, the apse. If it's not common to see 9th-century mosaics, it's even less common to see 4th-century ones (unless you are in Ravenna)! A magnificent view of Christ Surrounded by the Apostles (390CE) with a portrait of Pudentiana on the right (the girl with a golden green robe) awaits you there. And then the excavations: the remains of the 2nd-century thermal bath, the ruins of St. Pudentiana family's house, and the primitive version of the church.
Visits to the underground excavations are possible via guided tour! You can book yours here (you'll need to write an email)
Basilica of Santo Stefano Rotondo
● Tickets: free entry
● Best to See: Architecture, Byzantine mosaics
This church's name tells us a lot about its character already. Santo Stefano Rotondo literally means "St. Stephen Round" or "St. Stephen in the Round" and refers to the peculiar shape of the temple, which is circular. It's the most ancient example of such a church in Rome and the structure in general is one of the most antique in the capital city.
The church's striking circular layout, inspired by Byzantine and Roman mausoleums, features a large central nave encircled by two concentric rings. It alone is a good enough reason to visit the church, but there's more: the frescoes, added in the late 16th century by Niccolò Circignani and others, and the remnants of ancient mosaics, dating back to the 7th century.
Santo Stefano Rotondo is the national church of Hungary in Rome.
Santo Stefano is quite off the beaten track and it's often excluded from the main tourist routes. This is great because you won't find the Colosseum crowds here, but it also means you'll have to spend some time to reach it. For this reason, I believe it to be a good option for second-timers. If you are here, don't miss the Church of Santa Maria in Domnica: a Renaissant building with beautiful medieval mosaics that stands right opposite Santo Stefano.
Basilica of San Martino ai Monti
● Tickets: free entry
● Best to See: Archeological excavations
Another beautiful Baroque church with a remote foundation. Originally founded in the 4th century by Pope Sylvester I, it was built over an ancient Roman domus, making it one of the oldest churches in Rome.
Despite some significant renovations in the 6th and 9th centuries and later in the 1600s in Baroque style, its ancient origins remain visible in the archaeological excavations beneath the church, where traces of the early Christian assembly hall (3rd century) can still be explored.
The interior shows a harmonious blend of ancient, medieval, and Baroque elements, while on the backside of the church is a Roman façade, visible until up to the second floor.
You can visit the excavations free of charge (spontaneous offers are welcomed). In case you wish a guide to accompany you, you can contact one of the many Roman associations that organize guided tours here (like Roma Sotterranea)
Church of Sant'Andrea al Quirinale
● Tickets: free entry
● Best to See: Bernini's unique design
If you are on Quirinal Hill exploring its Palazzo and Scuderie, don't go away without visiting its Christian gem. Sant'Andrea al Quirinale is a Baroque masterpiece designed by Gian Lorenzo Bernini in the mid-17th century.
This small church presents an elliptical layout, a clear proof of Bernini's genius in creating a harmonious and dynamic space, and also a clear reminder of the Pantheon's structure. The interior is richly adorned with pink and white marble, gilded stucco, and ornate decorations. The high altar is a focal point, and above it is a striking sculptural depiction of Saint Andrew ascending to heaven.
This church, commissioned by Cardinal Camillo Pamphilj, was originally assigned to Francesco Borromini, the other great Baroque master and well-known for his rivalry with Bernini. In the end, the project was given to Bernini, thus further sparking the contention between the two, who however had several occasions to show off their talent. See the below church of San Carlino alle Quattro Fontane for a taste of Borromini's vision of Baroque.
Church of San Carlino alle Quattro Fontane
● Tickets: free entry
● Best to See: Borromini's unique design
This church's official dedication would be to San Carlo or St. Charles Borromeo. Carlino (little Charles) is a nickname given to it for its dimensions. The church is indeed pretty small and the story goes that it would occupy no more than the area of a single pillar of St. Peter in the Vatican.
Anyway, San Carlino is a Baroque gem designed by Francesco Borromini in the 1630s, with a rare undulating façade that creates a dynamic play of light and shadow, embodying the Baroque fascination. The interior shows architectural balance as well and is the perfect example of how Baroque could play with a small place and make it a beautiful temple despite the restrictions - Borromini's mastery at its highest level.
San Carlino Church can be confronted with Sant'Andrea al Quirinale - a slightly older Bernini's work. The enduring rivalry between the two artists is emphasized in these two churches, where both men give proof of their unpaired talent.
More Churches to See in Monti Neighborhood
We're not even close to the end of Monti's churches, but we cannot mention them all here. Nevertheless, they surely deserve some consideration (no place is ever ugly in Rome, "normal" at least) and are all worth a visit while you wander around the Rione!
You can find them all in this guide's interactive map, or you can click here on their names to check their location:
➊ NEED HELP WITH YOUR ROME TRIP? Let me craft a customized itinerary for you or create a list of curated recommendations according to your tastes, preferences, and travel party! Check the Services page here
ANCIENT ROMAN SITES
Forum of Augustus Complex
● Tickets: full price 18-20€ (buy your tickets with audioguide here or without here)
What is a forum? The Forum was the political, juridical, religious, and economic center of Ancient Roman cities, and that of Rome was the most important of all.
It's not easy to mention the Fora area here, because the rioni's borders split it in two. The Fora of Augustus, Trajan, and Nerva belong to Monti, while the Roman Forum and the Colosseum don't. For clarity and space reasons, here we're only mentioning what is included in Monti. Of course, if you visit the area consider visiting it all. The ticket you'll buy will be cumulative and give you access to the entire area.
The Forum of Augustus was initiated shortly after Augustus' triumph over Julius Caesar's killers and completed by 2BCE. The intervention was much needed since the old Roman Forum and the most recent Caesar's Forum were becoming too small for Rome's increasing relevance. It was built to prove the emperor's power and political influence and followed a strict propagandistic program. The forum was adorned with statues of Rome’s great men, including Augustus and Julius Caesar, symbolizing continuity and stability. Originally, it was 125m (410ft) long and 118m (387ft) wide, but today it looks much smaller. This is because later buildings were added well after Augustus' era - such as the small Forum of Nerva and the Forum of Domitian - and because part of it was submerged during the opening of Via dei Fori Imperiali.
Nerva's Forum was constructed to connect the other imperial fora, serving as both a functional thoroughfare and a symbolic space. Domitian's Forum was larger and more lavish, but today all we have of it are two columns, affectionately known in Rome as "Le Colonnacce" (the Ugly Columns).
Forum of Trajan Complex
● Tickets: full price 18-20€ (buy your tickets with audioguide here or without here)
Trajan (98-117 CE) is remembered as one of the most powerful and consequential Roman Emperors, and the one under whom the Empire reached its maximum territorial extent. As you may imagine, a larger empire required a larger forum, and so Trajan commissioned a new one.
This forum was made to monumentalize Trajan's military efforts, as his reign was in fact punctuated by trailblazing military campaigns and victories. Design by the greatest architect of the time, Apollodorus of Damascus, it was built between 107 and 113 CE and englobed the commercial complex of the Markets, already in place. The Markets were a multi-level structure that housed over 150 spaces, including a large hall for trade and public events.
With some 300m (984ft) in length and 180m (590ft) in width, Trajan's Forum was a metaphor devised by Apollodorus: it re-created the concept of a military camp to underscore the political preeminence of the legions (military units of the Roman army) in the society.
Visiting Ancient Roman sites means visiting buildings in a ruined state. For non-expert eyes, it can be hard to pinpoint the best spots and most significant areas. If you wish to truly understand what you're looking at, I'd recommend you add an audioguide to your ticket (try here) or book a guided tour of the premises (check here).
Ending Trajan's Forum tour is a structure you cannot miss: it's Trajan's Column, erected in 113 CE to commemorate Trajan's victory in the Dacian Wars. If you've studied history or art history, you've likely heard of it before. The 30-meter (98ft) marble column features a spiraling frieze with over 2,500 detailed reliefs narrating the Dacian campaigns, emphasizing Roman military prowess, engineering, and the Emperor’s leadership. Atop the column once stood a statue of Trajan, later replaced with Saint Peter, and at its base were once kept Trajan's own ashes.
Domus Area
● Tickets: full price 18€ (buy your tickets here)
If there's another place you may have heard of at school, that's the Domus Aurea (literally "golden house"). This incredible structure became notorious when it was first built, then legendary when it disappeared from sight, and it influenced generations of Modern artists when, after its re-discovery in the 1400s, it led to the reproduction in Renaissant art of the Roman grotesque.
The Domus Aurea was Emperor Nero's opulent palace, built after the Great Fire of Rome in 64 CE. It featured vast gardens, artificial lakes, and innovative architecture, with lavish decorations such as gold-leafed walls, intricate frescoes, mosaics, and a rotating dining room. Designed by architects Severus and Celer, it embodied Nero’s extravagance and desire for self-glorification. Following Nero's death, subsequent emperors repurposed the site, and that's why it soon disappeared from sight and memory.
After a long closure, the Domus Aurea has recently re-opened its doors and more recently extended its visiting times. Visits are possible both with guided tours or without. I definitely recommend to opt for a guided tour and to pre-book your spot here! Note that the visit will take place well below street level, in a grotto-like ambience.
More Ancient Roman Sites to See in Monti Neighborhood
So far we've covered all major Ancient Roman sites you can find in Rione Monti, but of course, we're not done. Remember that today Rome is built over Ancient Rome and basically everywhere in the city center and beyond an alley, building, and temple lies underground! The Basilica of San Clemente is an example of this, but there are many more.
You can find all of Monti's Roman sites in this guide's interactive map, but here are a couple more:
Ludus Magnus - where the gladiators used to train and prepare for their performances in the Colosseum. It was directly linked to the amphitheater through an underground passage.
Porta Asinaria - an ancient Roman gate, once part of the Aurelian Walls, the ring of walls that defended the ancient capital. It's from here that the Ostrogoths entered Rome and sacked it in 546 CE.
TOWERS AND PALACES
Lateranense Palace
● Tickets: full price 9€ (buy your tickets here)
We are coming back and back again in Piazza San Giovanni in Laterano, one of the vital cores of Monti Neighborhood. The Lateranense Palace stands right here, beside the monumental Archbasilica of St. John Lateran, and dominates the square with it.
➊ READ NEXT: Complete guide to the Archbasilica of Saint John Lateran, with history, description, and guided tour
This palace, originally constructed in the 4th century CE under Emperor Constantine, served as the residence of the popes for nearly a millennium. It became the administrative and spiritual center of the Catholic Church during the early Middle Ages, when was known as Patriarchio (the house of the patriarch, alas the pope).
What we see today is certainly not medieval, as the Patriarchio was substituted under Pope Sixtus V (1585-1590) with a modern, Renaissant building. The architect was Domenico Fontana. In fact, after the 14th century, popes did not often live here and the palace was mostly used as an exemplification of papal wealth and power, with its magnificently decorated rooms and halls. Particularly, the Hall of the Pontiffs (Sala dei Pontefici) became notorious after it hosted the 1929 ratification of the Lateran Pacts - the agreements between the then-Kingdom of Italy ruled by Benito Mussolini and the Papacy.
House of the Knights of Rhodes
● Tickets: full price 4€ (accessible with restrictions)
We are now right on the opposite corner of Monti Neighborhood, farthest possible from St. John Lateran, near the Forum of Augustus.
The House of the Knights of Rhodes (Casa dei Cavalieri di Rodi) is a half-medieval, half-Renaissant-looking complex and yet another majestic example of Rome's unpaired stratification.
Originally built in the late 13th century as the headquarters of the Knights Hospitaller (a Christian military order born on the wave of the Crusades and then evolved over the centuries), it served as a key administrative and residential center for the order during their presence in Rome (all Church-approved orders held their quarters in the city).
Made of bricks to blend with the surroundings, it shows a huge arch on the façade and beautiful 1400s windows, legacies of a significant 15th-century restoration. Parts of it still date back to Roman times, when the area was a full-fledged portion of the Forum.
Unfortunately, the House is rarely open to the public. It opens on Tuesday and Thursday mornings only. When open, you must join a guided tour to visit it, or you can visit it on your own on rare occasions. Check here for more information (in Italian only, but you can translate the page).
More Towers and Palaces to See in Monti Neighborhood
Rome lost much of its medieval layout over the centuries, thus leaving portions of towers and palaces all around the Fora area, where during the Middle Ages various civic and religious buildings were erected. The Modern era brought massive papal interventions all over the city, and tons of aristocratic residences popped up to show off the power of the main Roman families. Lastly, the late 1800s and the new role of Rome as the capital of Italy naturally called for more palaces in Neoclassical or Empire style.
All major towers and palaces you can find in Monti Neighborhood are listed in this guide's interactive map. They are not all visitable but are all worth a check of their architecture. Here is an overview:
PALACES
Palazzo Brancaccio - this 19th-century opulent palace is the last aristocratic residence built in Rome.
Palazzo Koch - today the seat of the Bank of Italy, it's a late-1800 building made in Neo-Renaissant style.
Palazzo della Consulta - the seat of the Constitutional Court of Italy, this Baroque palace was built on the site of Constantine Baths.
Palazzo del Viminale - it hosts the Ministry of Interior of Italy and was built in the early 1900s in Neoclassical style. It's made of more than one hundred rooms.
Palazzo delle Esposizioni - a Neoclassical building erected in the late 1800s as part of the urban renewal of Rome Capital
Tower of Milizie
MEDIEVAL TOWERS
Tower of Milizie - this medieval tower lies amongst the ruins of Trajan's Markets. It was built in the 1200s but in 1348 an earthquake turned down its upper side and made it pendent, that's why it looks like this today.
Torre dei Conti - today, this medieval tower looks isolated within the Fora area. This is due to the urban restorations of the 1800s. It belonged to the Counts of Segni but in 1328 an earthquake reduced it to the lower portion.
Torre Margana - the residence of the Margani family, it's sometimes wrongly called "Torre dei Borgia" (no Borgia ever owned it), it was built in the 1200s, and then rebuilt in the 15th century.
THINGS TO DO IN MONTI: THE COMPLETE ADDRESS BOOK
As we saw, Monti Neighborhood is a culturally rich area with so much to offer that first-timers are normally unable to see it all on their first visit!
The Rione is also known as one of the most authentic and still-local-based districts of Rome, and it bursts with small artisanal shops, second-hand boutiques, old-style restaurants and trattorie, and cafés. Monti is also a popular nightlife destination for Roman and university students alike, and if you go to Piazza della Madonna dei Monti at night, expect to find it crowded and noisy!
Exploring a neighborhood is much more than just checking its heritage, even if you're in Rome and heritage is literally at every corner. If you're interested in discovering the heart and soul of Monti, I've prepared an address book to help you in your quest! All suggestions have been thoroughly checked to avoid tourist traps and make your experience as enjoyable as possible.
Inside it, expect to find a curated selection of:
Restaurants, trattorie and cafés
Artisanal shops and second-hand boutiques
Accommodations
Activities and more things to do
➊ NEED HELP WITH YOUR ROME TRIP? Let me craft a customized itinerary for you or create a list of curated recommendations according to your tastes, preferences, and travel party! Check the Services page here
References:
AA.VV, I Rioni di Roma, Volume Primo, Newton & Compton, 2000.
Giovanni di Benedetto, Claudio Rendina, Storia di Roma Moderna e Contemporanea, Newton & Compton, 2005.
Luciano Zeppegno, Roberto Mattonelli, Le Chiese di Roma, Newton & Compton, 2007.
Mary Beard, SPQR, A History of Ancient Rome, Profile Books, 2015.