Ah, the Forbidden City! Who hasn't heard about it at least once? Its history is legendary, its architecture is iconic and, as you may imagine, its extension is... impressive. A once-residential citadel destined for the Emperors and their court of concubines and eunuchs, today remains a city within the city, and awes everyone who sees it.
Planning a visit to one of the most popular museum complexes in the world can get slightly complicated at times, and getting there culturally prepared may seem harder. However, being able to visit a City that has been hidden from the masses' eye for centuries is a true privilege, and should be enjoyed at its fullest.
In this guide, you'll hopefully find everything you need to truly and more clearly understand what you are going to see and visit or, at least, everything I wished I knew when I first visited the Forbidden City! Find practical information, a map, suggested itineraries, history, useful facts, a quick guide to the palace and its architecture's meaning and symbolism, and possibly more!
What if you still need help? Try checking out here!
In this article:
The Forbidden City in Beijing: Introduction and History
Understanding the Forbidden City
Visiting the Forbidden City
The Forbidden City in Beijing: Plan Your Visit
The Forbidden City of Beijing: Introduction and History
INTRODUCTION: WHAT IS THE FORBIDDEN CITY?
What is the Forbidden City? Let's start from the basics:
The Forbidden City is an enormous complex of palaces and buildings that together form a veritable city.
It used to be the residence of the Chinese emperors, from 1420 to 1924.
It is located at the center of Beijing and its main entrance is from Tiananmen Square.
It contains some 980 buildings, of which 70 palaces, and 9000+ rooms (where a room is intended as a space within four pillars, we'll mention this later!). These are scattered across the Outer Court (area for ceremonial and official events) and the Inner Court (residential area).
The Name
➊ Why do we call this complex of buildings "Forbidden City"?
Because no one except the emperor and his court could enter it.
It was a place that was forbidden and felt forbidden: in a world with no airplanes or drones whatsoever, looking past its thick walls was virtually impossible, especially because no building in the area was allowed to surpass the tallest buildings in the Forbidden City.
The name "Forbidden City" comes from its equivalent in Chinese 紫禁城 (Zijincheng), literally "Forbidden Purple City", used for the first time in 1576. That "purple" (zi), dropped in the English version, has a very specific meaning. It was a reference to the Ziwei Star, the North Star, which was believed to be the home of the Jade (or Heavenly) Emperor (a sort of deity). The counterpart of this high entity was the Emperor on earth, who was supposed to mirror the Heavenly Emperor's actions: the Forbidden City was thus a copy, slightly less grandiose, of an immense palace on the North Star, known as the Heavenly Emperor's residence.
➊ How do the Chinese call the Forbidden City today?
You can hear them call it Zijincheng (Forbidden Purple City), or 故宮(Gugong), "Former Palace", a name that better visualizes a place that has lost its function. If they wish to refer to it as the museum complex that visitors pay a ticket to see, then this would be 故宫博物院 (Gugong Bowuyuan), "Palace Museum".
Keep "Palace Museum" in mind because the place is often translated in English this way on official channels!
HISTORY OF THE FORBIDDEN CITY
Building the Forbidden City
Beijing has not always been the capital of China: Nanjing, Xi'an, and others contented this title over the centuries. Therefore, it did not always have a palace. It had one, though, when the city was called Dadu and the reigning dynasty was the Yuan (1279-1368). The Yuan Emperors built a palace, that was however destroyed in 1369 when a new dynasty was established (the Ming) and Nanjing became the new capital.
➊ READ NEXT: Traveler's Guide to the Dynasties of China
This Yuan palace stood right where the Forbidden City is today: the choice of confirming this location was made by Prince Zhu Di when he became the Yongle Emperor (永樂帝 "Perpetual Happiness", r. 1402-1424), 3rd of the Ming Dynasty.
The Yongle Emperor usurped the throne from his nephew, and for this reason he would forever fear for his life: usurpation and familial treason were seen as terrible affronts in China and were rarely justified. This caused the new emperor to flee from the capital Nanjing and find shelter in the city where he used to live as a prince: Beijing.
In Beijing, he found a capital but not a palace: the old one had not been rebuilt after 1369. He therefore began the construction of a new one, which he wished to be immensely more grandiose than the previous, probably as a way to ingratiate Heaven and the population, and to build some authority around himself.
Thus, in 1406 construction for what will be the Forbidden City began. The works would last until 1420 and involve an enormous number of people (some 100.000 artisans and 1 million workers!). Several architects were called to contribute but we usually don't know their names. What we know is that their work was later reviewed by the Imperial Ministry of Work and had to be approved to be executed.
Materials for the construction came from all over China: it was a way to symbolize that the entire kingdom was participating in the building of its sole sovereign's residence and to make everyone feel as part of a whole. On this occasion, incredibly precious materials were used, including a rare variety of wood found only in South China (Phoebe Zhennan or 楠木 Nanmu) and today almost extinct. Later, during the numerous renovations, less expensive materials would be preferred.
By 1420 works were complete but the Yongle Emperor would have little time to enjoy his palace: just three months later, lightning struck the three main halls of the Outer Court, razing them to the ground. They were not rebuilt for 23 years and we can imagine little activity in the Forbidden City without its main buildings. Also, the emperor would die a few years later, in 1424. The magnificence of his creation was to be enjoyed by his successors.
The Forbidden City in dynastic China
After its completion in 1420, the Forbidden City would be used continuously as a residence until 1924, year of the ultimate expulsion of Puyi (also known as the Xuantong Emperor, 溥儀 "Proclamation of Unity", r. 1908-1912). In total, it saw 24 emperors, encompassing most of the Ming and the entire Qing dynasties.
Its immense premises did not reach the 20th century intact though, but were frequently renovated and reconstructed over time. As we saw, a first intervention was needed soon after works were done, then again after the collapse of the Ming Dynasty in 1644, when Li Zicheng 李自成 ignited a rebellion against the Emperor that would bring this latter to commit suicide on the hill behind the Forbidden City (today Jingshan Park 景山) and the Qing Dynasty to establish itself. On that occasion, the complex was partially set on fire.
Apart from violent events, a massive residential city made mostly of wood naturally required constant reparation and was frequently subject to fires and collapses. However, no intervention ever changed the overall structure and the Forbidden City we see today looks very similar to the original (but basically no building belongs to the first 1400s construction anymore).
While the 18th century saw China flourishing and the Forbidden City being expanded, by the 19th century the Empire was slowly declining and the Forbidden City became a constant target for external attacks. In 1813 it was briefly assaulted, while in 1860 Anglo-French forces occupied it amidst the Second Opium War. In 1900, it was occupied again by the Eight-Nation Alliance, a coalition (formed by Western countries/kingdoms + Russia and Japan) that military invaded China while the country was on the verge of a massive governmental collapse.
➊ READ NEXT: Traveler's Guide to the Dynasties of China to find out more about how the Qing and the Chinese Empire ended
At that point, Beijing and its Forbidden City were to succumb together with the monarchy: in 1908 the last emperor Puyi was installed on the throne when still a child. It was the last action of a defunct institution that could not survive any longer in a country wretched by turmoil. Puyi would messily reign until 1911, then officially abdicate in 1912 with an imperial edict. The Forbidden City thus stopped being the center of China's political power but remained Puyi's residence until 1924, when the last emperor was forced out by Feng Yuxiang 冯玉祥 (1882-1948), later Minister of War and Vice Premier of the newly-born Republic of China.
The Forbidden City after the fall of the Empire
Post-dynastic China would bring trouble to the Forbidden City.
In the very first years after Puyi's abdication, looting and stealing of the palace's treasures soon became the norm. Despite now hosting more than one million objects, the Forbidden City lost an inestimable number of artifacts during the 1910s and 1920s. Puyi himself and his eunuchs (we'll mention them in the next sections!) would conceal or steal, even leading to a massive fire in 1923, where thousands of objects from the Qianlong Emperor's reign (1735-1796) were destroyed.
Then, in 1924 Puyi was gone, the last emperor to ever live in the Forbidden City. Since his abdication, he had lived in the Inner Court, while the Outer Court was already opened as a museum in 1914 to a few selected visitors. In those years, the newly-established Republic of China feared a return of the monarchy and thus accelerated the process of transforming the Forbidden City into a museum to forever change its perception in the minds of the masses. On October 10th, 1925 the Inner Court was also opened.
Anyway, in the 1930s and 1940s, China suffered a Japanese invasion and a harsh civil war. The Republic temporarily moved the palace's treasures to Sichuan and elsewhere across the country. Little damage occurred in this period, but the premises, once splendent, gradually declined and sometimes partially collapsed.
In 1949, Mao Zedong 毛泽东 (1893-1976) proclaimed the establishment of the new People's Republic of China from Tian'anmen (literally "Gate of Heavenly Peace" where "-men" is "gate"), the iconic gate now facing the homonymous square and exhibiting the portrait of the Chairman on its front.
And yet, Mao and his followers were not exactly fans of the Forbidden City. They assimilated the complex to decadence, corruption and weakness that led to the disastrous fall of the Empire and caused great humiliation to China. They often thought of razing it to the ground to build a highway or massive factory blocks instead. Luckily, this did not happen, but during the Cultural Revolution (1966-1976) the City had to remain closed for several years (1966-1971) to prevent the Red Guards from destroying it on the verge of their despisal towards the past. On its main entrance, a label appeared and it said: "Palace of Blood and Tears".
In 1971 the Forbidden City reopened its doors and was visited by US President Richard Nixon (1913-1994) and Henry Kissinger during a momentous trip through the country that inaugurated the new stage of US-China relations. From that moment, the City gradually regained its prestige and was once more seen as a precious heritage.
However, it took some time and lots of effort to make it what we see now. Years of partial abandonment, rough modifications, and destruction had left their mark. A recent, massive renovation just saw its end in 2021, after some fifteen years of work. The goal is to make the Forbidden City accessible as much as possible.
THE FORBIDDEN CITY TODAY
After such a turbulent history, fortunately, today the City is held in high regard by the Chinese and foreigners alike.
When you visit it, you perceive a sense of reverence and affection coming from locals - something that may amaze us, if we consider what happened during the early 20th century or Mao's era.
Today, a good 85% of the total area covered by the City is open to the public, although not everything is part of the "Palace Museum". The once-forbidden imperial residence is now accessible to virtually everybody and is not a secret anymore. With convenient ticketing pricing, the City is also financially accessible, meaning that every Chinese may aspire to visit it during their lifetime.
After centuries of hiding the emperors to idolatrize and create a sense of divinity around them, the Forbidden City today represents a tangible link with a past the Chinese have finally made (mostly) peace with. Regarded as a national symbol and one of the most precious heritage sites in the country, the Forbidden City unites the population and reminds them that China has always been a whole and that they are all part of a common path, no matter the ups and downs of history.
Understanding the Forbidden City
THE EMPEROR IN DYNASTIC CHINA
To truly understand the crucial role the Forbidden City played and the reason why, as we will see, every single inch of it had to be designed to perfection, we need to consider the figure of the Emperor and what he signified for dynastic China.
➊ READ NEXT: To discover more about the history of dynastic China with all its emperors, check out this guide to the Dynasties of China!
The Emperor in China was regarded as a demigod. Many religions were practiced in the country (and still are) but the "official", "national" cult was for the Heaven (天 Tian), a combination of ancestral beliefs and traditions. The Emperor was known as the "Son of Heaven" (天子 Tianzi), thus the direct emissary of the Heaven on Earth. Indeed, while he had no power over Heaven, the Earth was his realm, also known as "All Under Heaven" (天下 Tianxia). The Earth was supposed to mirror the Heaven, and the Emperor's deeds to be as upright as possible to match heavenly perfection - if he did not keep up to the highest standards, he could risk his throne and life.
➊ READ NEXT: For more information about the cult of Heaven and to discover the very place in Beijing where this cult was celebrated, check out the guide on The Temple of Heaven!
Being closer to a god than a human being, the Emperor and his body and mind belonged to the Empire. His very life and legacy were matters of national importance and he was not allowed to live as any other individual. Everything he did followed precise rules and protocols, every single person he met followed precise rules and protocols, and his residence had to be built following precise rules and protocols. Nothing was left to chance, as the Chinese believed the continuous succession of Emperors to be fundamental in keeping China alive and prosperous.
This explains why the Forbidden City, the official residence of the Ming and Qing Emperors, is all symbols and rankings.
LIFE IN THE FORBIDDEN CITY
Since life in the Forbidden City was so concealed from the public eye, we do not have an extensive narrative of what happened behind its doors. It was customary for dynastic China to keep track of everything the Emperor did, but this did not always reach us or can give us only a partial view of the immense machine that was the imperial court.
Here are a few things we do know:
Only the Emperor and his court were allowed inside the Inner Court (residential area), with very few exceptions. The Outer Court could be accessed by officials, ambassadors, and tributaries on set occasions.
The imperial court included the Emperor, the Empress, a large number of consorts and concubines, and an immense number of eunuchs.
The Emperors didn't necessarily like living in the Forbidden City: the Qing Emperors found it to be extremely claustrophobic and fleed at any occasion. They could spend months in other Beijing residences (such as the Summer Palace) or in the Chengde area.
We also know, more or less, what a typical day in the Emperor's life could look like, thanks to "The Imperial Diaries", a record of the Qianlong Emperor's era (1735-1796). On a regular day with no celebration on schedule, the Emperor would wake up very early in the morning, while outside Tian'anmen several officials were already waiting for him to let them enter for the daily dawn audience. He would later spend his day in between duties, study, and rest, leaving the Outer Court after the audience to move around the Inner Court's western flanks.
Empresses, Concubines and Eunuchs
As we said, the body and mind of the Emperor belonged to the state, and so did his legacy. One of his crucial duties was to produce enough heirs to guarantee a safe succession and the task had to be taken seriously.
This is why Chinese Emperors were not monogamous and kept several mistresses. As with everything else, the imperial harem of women followed a very strict ranking and no woman was equal to another. There was only one Empress - whose heirs were favored - one Imperial Consort, two Noble Consorts, four Consorts, six Imperial Concubines, unnumbered Honored Ladies, etc. Young women introduced in the court could expect to start from the lowest ranks and then climb their way to the front, gradually winning more time with the Emperor and thus more chances to conceive. Being closer to the Emperor also meant more power, and in the late years of the Qing, this became especially true.
You may have heard of Empress Dowager Cixi 慈禧太后 (1835-1908). She became a notorious symbol of imperial decadence and decline, although her deeds have been recently reconsidered. She started in the low ranks of concubines and then reached Noble Consort status. When her Emperor died in 1861, the only son he had was her child, so she became the de-facto ruler of China as the Empress Dowager until her death in 1908. She would choose Puyi as the next Emperor on her deathbed - an unlucky choice, as we saw. |
The Emperor also had to make sure no one around him could produce an illegitimate heir with one of his mistresses and maybe attempt to his life to favor him. Constantly fearing for his safety, he also did not want ambitious figures among his personal staff, someone who could make alliances to favor his own family.
This is why his court was entirely composed of women and eunuchs. The eunuchs took care of every single aspect of the imperial life and, according to their own ranks, could manage organizational, logistical, or very practical tasks. The number of eunuchs needed for the Forbidden City to function was impressive: during the Ming dynasty, it is said there were some 100.000 of them, while they were gradually reduced until only a few thousand remained under Puyi. Anyway, as you may imagine, their presence (and influence) was impactful.
SYMBOLS AND MEANING OF THE FORBIDDEN CITY
Now we need to delve a bit deeper into the intricate symbolism and ranking system found in the Forbidden City to understand the meaning of what we are looking at. Trust me on this: without some good basis, you'll have a hard time making your visit purposeful!
There would be tons of things to say and aspects to consider, but here we cannot mention them all. Therefore, the following list will include all main themes without going through them in tiny details - it'll give you a good overview.
● LOCATION: The center was sacred in ancient China, and the solemn ruler (the Emperor) was to live exactly at the center of his capital. In this case, the Forbidden City was located at the exact center of ancient Beijing. The central axis of the capital crossed the City, through which the main North-South and West-East roads passed. Today, Beijing is an enormous metropolis, but the City remains its core and center.
● STRUCTURE: We said that nothing in the Forbidden City is random and everything abides by specific rules - this is especially true for architecture. Indeed, the City is built following feng shui parameters, inspired by the Book of Zhou.
Feng shui 风水 is an ancient art of divination used to harmonize objects and individuals with their environment. It was and is still widely used in China for architecture to determine the right position of every element. The Book of Zhou 周书 is an ancient chronicle-history book, written in the 7th century CE and recording the deeds of the Zhou Dynasty. It was largely used as a reference for feng shui practices. |
➜ The Book of Zhou required imperial cities to have the ancestral temple on the left, the community temple on the right (two large temples are positioned this way in the City), the main hall on the south (Outer Court), and the residential area on the north (Inner Court). Then, for a city to be placed correctly, it had to be positioned with a mountain up north and a river on the south - this is something Beijing did not (and doesn't) have, so an artificial hill and a water-filled moat (both still visible today outside the Forbidden City walls) were specifically created. This scheme was set to reproduce the feudal society.
➜ City planning went further: for example, the three main halls of the Outer Court are built on three-story white marble platforms to recreate the Chinese character for "earth", 土. This shape was meant to symbolize the Earth, alas the realm of the Son of Heaven, the Emperor.
● NAMES: The Gate of Heavenly Peace, the Hall of Supreme Harmony, the Hall of Mental Cultivation. You'll soon learn that everything in the Forbidden City has a pompous name, just as the Emperor and his court had. Of course, this also had a meaning. Every dynasty had its favorite concepts - expressed with a recurrent Chinese character - and liked to assign its Emperors and its residences names that resonated with these concepts. For example, the Qing Dynasty favored the concept of "harmony", and that's why the three main halls of the Outer Court have "Harmony" in their name.
Note that the English translation of buildings and emperors' names is often indicative, and fails to truly convey the original message expressed in Chinese, where more characters merged together form a complex concept.
● COLORS AND NUMBERS: have you noticed some gold in the Forbidden City? Or some red maybe? I bet you did! Sure enough, also colors had a specific meaning, just like in the Temple of Heaven. ➜ Yellow/gold was the color of the Emperor and thus used on buildings to recognize those of imperial ranking. Red symbolized good fortune and is still quite used in these terms in China today (much more as "good fortune" than as "communist"). ➜ Colors were also associated with cardinal points and more frequently used in their respective areas: east was linked to green and to earth, south to red and to fire, west to white and to metal, and north to black and to water. ➜ Each dynasty had its preferred color and element, and this could also influence architecture if a building was created or restored under a specific dynasty. The Ming favored red and wood, the Qing black and water. ➜ While numbers played a more evident role in places like the Temple of Heaven, in the Forbidden City they were still crucial to envision the final structure. Nine is the number you should expect to find the most, because being the largest single-digit number, it was linked to the Emperor to symbolize his proximity to Heaven. Three, five, and six are also often found in the City, while four, traditionally an unlucky number, is scarcely present.
● RANKING: We know by now that everything had a rank in the Forbidden City and in the imperial court. So just like consorts, eunuchs, and officials, architecture too came with its rules. ➜ As you may imagine, the bigger the building, the greater its importance. This is why the most important building was also the biggest: the Hall of Supreme Harmony. However, this was not always true: for several years, the Hall of Mental Cultivation - a relatively small building in the Inner Court - was used by the Emperor as his office and thus became the real center of power, without being the biggest structure.
➜ Everything in the Forbidden City had imperial ranking, thus placing a building automatically high. However, the best way to determine a building's rating within the City is to look at the Ridge Beasts on its roof. These cute ceramic mythological animals acted as spirit guardians and kept demons away. The more we see, the higher the ranking of the building. The Hall of Supreme Harmony shows the entire roster, so ten of them. It was indeed the most important building in the City.
➜ Dragon motifs are also a good sign of imperial ranking, being the dragon the animal associated with the Emperor. The more intricate dragon motifs you can spot, the more important the building was.
Visiting the Forbidden City
FORBIDDEN CITY PLAN AND VISITOR'S PATH
From a visitor's perspective, the Forbidden City looks like a veritable maze. Its extended area, infinite buildings, and complex plan can be confusing, and when this adds up to the crowds you'll likely encounter, it may make your visit stressful.
Let's try to avoid getting super stressed and instead focus on making the most of a true privilege - that of being able to enter a once-forbidden city! To let you familiarize yourself with the palace complex, here is a plan:
Note: for clarity reasons, on the map I've only named the places we are going to describe here and not everything that we'll be mentioning. Of course, this doesn't mean you shouldn't explore more! You'll always find a panel with some basic information near every single building.
Everything you need to know about the Forbidden City's plan
● The Forbidden City covers an area of 15000 sqm / 161458sqft. It is rectangular, being 961m / 3152ft long (North-South) and 753m / 2470ft wide (East-West). It appears as a citadel city with 8m / 26ft high thick walls, a tower on every corner, and a gate on each side.
● It contains some 980 buildings, of which 70 are the main palaces, and roughly 9000 rooms. ➜ Originally, the Forbidden City was thought to contain exactly 9999 rooms. This was precisely one room less than the mythical Jade Emperor's palace on the North Star that the Forbidden City was supposed to emulate. 10000 was a perfect, complete number reserved to Heaven and downsizing showed humility. Also, nine was the Emperor's number.
➊ What is a "room" in the Forbidden City? A room in this case is not what we would probably think of. It's not a space isolated from the others by four walls, but a space within four pillars. This way, a single large hall could contain several rooms, making it easier to reach 9999.
● The Forbidden City is divided into two main sections: the Outer Court and the Inner Court.
The Outer Court is the first you'll encounter. It's more airy and spacious, it features large courtyards and huge halls and it's where the official ceremonies and main imperial audiences were held. The Emperor did not reside in this area and only visited it when his presence was required.
The Inner Court is a cozier, more intimate area where the majority of buildings are located. This was the residential area where the Emperor, Empress and concubines lived. Only the court and the eunuchs could access the area, with a few rare exceptions for high officials and ministers.
● The Forbidden City was built on the central North-South axis of Beijing, and its main buildings are all concentrated on this axis. This includes: Tian'anmen (the gate with Mao's portrait), the Meridian Gate, the Gate of Supreme Harmony, the three main halls of the Outer Court (Hall of Supreme Harmony, Hall of Central Harmony, Hall of Preserving Harmony), the Gate of Heavenly Purity, and the three main halls of the Inner Court (Palace of Heavenly Purity, Hall of Union, Palace of Earthly Tranquility).
● In the Forbidden City, you'll see mostly wooden structures made in the typical Ming architectural style. Gold and red will be the most popular colors, the reasons for this we mentioned here.
Visitor's Path
Once inside the Forbidden City, there is no specific path you must follow. You can explore at your own pace and focus on what interests you the most. However, entrance and exit points are fixed.
Entrance to the Forbidden City is through Tian'anmen 天安门, the iconic gate exhibiting Mao Zedong's portrait on its front. From there, the next stop will naturally be the Meridian Gate, with toilets, shops, and info points in between. Then you'll likely start from the Outer Court and later move to the Inner Court - check these suggested itineraries for inspiration.
Note that access to Tiananmen Square is subject to restrictions and you must reserve a (free) spot. Search for "Tiananmen Square" on WeChat, click on the first result, then on the first blue button to proceed. Otherwise, try this option. In case you opt for a Forbidden City guided tour or for a ticket booking service, this normally includes the Square. You don't need access to Tiananmen Square to visit the Forbidden City, the gate entrance is outside the restricted area.
The exit from the Forbidden City is located at the Gate of Divine Prowess (神武门 Shenwumen). This means that you'll find yourself up north, at the exact opposite of your entrance point. Walking back to Tiananmen from there is not feasible, better to explore the surroundings (check Jingshan Park 景山).
THE GATE OF HEAVENLY PEACE (天安门TIAN'ANMEN)
Your journey through the Forbidden City starts from the Gate of Heavenly Peace or Tian'anmen. It is and it was the first entrance gate to the entire complex.
Originally built in 1420 together with the entire City, it was destroyed the first time in 1457, and several times later. What you see today is a 1969 Mao era reconstruction: since white ants were eating out its decaying structure, Mao's entourage opted for a full reconstruction in "public secrecy" - the area was entirely covered so that no one could understand what was going on.
➜ Interestingly enough, during the 1969 reconstruction the typically-imperial dragon motif decoration, a common view in the entire City, was substituted by a mass-friendly sunflower motif: the sunflowers symbolize the Chinese people, all rotating their heads to follow the "Sun", alias Mao Zedong and his teachings.
The gate was supposed to impress foreign visitors and intimidate the subjects with its might and height. While exhibiting a regular Ming architecture style just like the rest of the City, with an imperial golden roof and red wooden structure, Tian'anmen today features a portrait, the National Emblem, and two placards:
The iconic portrait is of Mao Zedong and is being replaced every year on National Day (October 1st). Portraits have been hanging from there since 1925: the first one was of Sun Yat-sen 孙逸仙, then Chang Kai-shek 蔣介石. Mao came in 1949 with Zhu De 朱德, only to remain alone from October 1st of the same year when the People's Republic was established.
The two placards are also iconic. Curious to know what they say? On the left is "中华人民共和国万岁 - Long Live the People's Republic of China", on the right "世界人民大团结万岁 - Long Live the Great Solidarity of the World's Peoples".
From here, in 1949 Mao Zedong proclaimed the establishment of the People's Republic of China.
THE OUTER COURT
Once inside the Forbidden City, the first area you'll naturally encounter is the Outer Court. The Outer Court is the most awe-inspiring and monumental section of the complex, and its main monuments - two gates and three halls - are all located on the central axis (North-South).
As we mentioned, the Outer Court was thought for ceremonial and official usage, and not for residential purposes. Here, the Emperor would come to officiate daily audiences, public celebrations, and rites, and to attend the final stages of the governmental examinations.
The main buildings of the Outer Court are unmissable points on your visit, so let's spend a few words on each!
The Meridian Gate (午门 Wumen)
Tian'anmen may be the most iconic and well-known gate of the Forbidden City, but the Meridian Gate is surely the biggest and most majestic. Once you pass through it, you really are inside the Forbidden City.
It's the main gate of the complex and its monumental structure is, unlike many others, formed by several buildings. It is moreover located on a 12m / 39ft platform that forms a square.
Notice that it has three passageways and keep this in mind for every similar case in the City: the central was reserved for the Emperor and used exclusively by him. The Empress would pass through it on her wedding day, and successful candidates for the governmental examination would also pass through it when heading to their audience with the Emperor.
Built for the first time in 1420, the current version is dated 1801. From here, the Emperor would issue edicts, impart orders, and share crucial communications. From here, every single year the Emperor would share the points of the lunar calendar. He would also hold occasional banquets.
The Gate of Supreme Harmony (太和门 Taihemen)
Another gate before we reach the heart of the Inner Court!
The square between the Meridian Gate and the Gate of Supreme Harmony is a must for visitors and guided tours - an ultra-popular photo spot likely to be quite crowded. The area is crossed by a serpentine waterway (called "Inner Gold Creek" - 內金水 Neijinshui) with five stone bridges. Two massive guardian lions that are supposed to bring good fortune watch over the place. In the very square, officials and ministers would gather and wait for the Emperor to grant further access.
The Gate of Supreme Harmony was built in 1420, then rebuilt many times. Particularly, it burned down in 1886 due to a massive fire and was rebuilt a last time in 1894.
It is where the dawn audiences took place during the Ming Dynasty, and thus in that time it was highly relevant. Later, during the Qing, its prominence was stolen by other buildings. The lateral structures you see were used as Archives and Record Offices (Ming) and Inspection Offices (Qing).
The Hall of Supreme Harmony (太和殿 Taihedian)
The Hall of Supreme Harmony is the most important building in the Forbidden City and because of this, it stands exactly on the central axis (the center was thought to be sacred, remember?). Its present version dates back to 1695, with several later adjustments.
The first of the three main halls of the Outer Court, it's a huge, 30m / 98ft meter high wooden structure built on a three-level platform of marble and stone, which rise underscores the preeminence of the Hall. Indeed, it was used for enthronement and wedding ceremonies, and for banquets on solstices or New Year's celebrations. It also hosted the biggest and most solemn imperial throne - you can still glance at it today, although entering the Hall is not possible. If you can, notice the ceiling above it: there is a dragon whose mouth was believed to hold metal balls to be released in case a usurper would sit on the throne.
Being so important, the Hall was filled with numerical symbolism and great attention was given to its structure, which had to abide by the strictest rules of feng shui. This is why you'll easily spot golden decorations and dragon motifs and why the numbers six and nine are ever-present.
The Hall of Central Harmony (中和殿 Zhonghedian)
You may be surprised to find a much smaller building just behind the massive Hall of Supreme Harmony! However, its limited dimensions served a precise purpose.
The second of the three main halls of the Outer Court, this place was where the Emperor rested before or in between a solemn ceremony in the Hall of Supreme Harmony. Here, he also received formal salutes for his ministers.
The Hall of Preserving Harmony (保和殿 Baohedian)
We are about to leave the Outer Court - going past the Hall of Central Harmony we reach the last of its three main halls, the Hall of Preserving Harmony.
Here, where dimensions get more evident again, the Emperor would engage in different tasks depending on the epoch. During the Ming Dynasty, he would change clothes or have meetings, while during the Qing they would give banquets to foreign tributaries and emissaries on New Year's Eve every year. It is also where the last stage of the governmental examinations took place - successful candidates from the previous stages would extraordinarily enter the Forbidden City and pass through central entrances to meet with the Emperor.
Considering the importance of this building, do not be surprised to find it so similar to the Hall of the Supreme Harmony (it also hosts a smaller throne): their roles were specular and the latter was used only on the most solemn occasions.
Before you go, stop by its rear side and look for a massive, long carving stone. Called Dashidiao 大石雕 and located in the middle of the rear stairway, this stone was actually a boardwalk and was used exclusively by the Emperor's palanquin. He was transported out of the Hall on this stone, and while many smaller stones like this one can be found in the Outer Court, this one is the biggest and most finely decorated. This is because this was the last outpost before transitioning into the Inner Court.
➜ This stone's history is unique: we mentioned that materials for the Forbidden City came from all over China. The marble piece for this specific boardwalk came from a quarry some 70km / 43,5mi outside Beijing and had to be transported all the way to the capital. To do so, some 10000 workers poured water along the way to make an ice road in winter - it took them one month to bring it to its destination. Even though this happened in the 1410s, the current magnificent dragon motifs are a 1700s work: it shows nine dragons (nine and the dragon being imperial symbols) playing with pearls.
THE INNER COURT
Now that we had time to admire the Outer Court's majesty, it is time to enter a more secluded and intimate area: the Inner Court. Prepare for narrower passageways, lower buildings, smaller courtyards, and long corridors. Also, here gold will be less present, while red, black, and blue will often prevail.
The Inner Court was reserved for the Emperor, his consorts, and eunuchs - hardly anyone else could access it. It was also the last area to open as a museum because, after his abdication in 1912, the last Emperor Puyi would continue to reside here until 1924.
The Inner Court features other three main halls that, although smaller, are meant to mirror those of the Outer Court. Let's see them!
The Gate of Heavenly Purity (乾清门 Qianqingmen)
To finally enter the Inner Court we shall pass through a gate, the Gate of Heavenly Purity.
Built in 1420, what you see today is a 1655 reconstruction with later addictions. Notice the three steps in front of it (and compare them to the high platforms of the Outer Court) - this is how we understand the different rankings of buildings.
The Gate became particularly relevant during the Qing when it was used as a place for handling governmental affairs and hosting fasting ceremonies and imperial hearings. Also, while the Ming preferred the Outer Court for their morning audiences, the Qing opted for this Gate for their daily 8am meetings.
It is interesting to mention that this place and its immediate surroundings became notorious in the early 2000s when a Starbucks store was opened right there. The presence of a mainstream Western chain sparked much controversy, and many Chinese saw it as an improper use of a national symbol. The Starbucks store was closed in 2007, and now there's a museum shop in its place.
The Palace of Heavenly Purity (乾清宫 Qianqinggong)
Not to forget that we are in the residential area of the City, we now meet the Palace of Heavenly Purity, once the sleeping palace for the Emperor. Including the concept of "Heaven" in its name (although characters differ from the Outer Court's) was a way to illustrate its importance and direct link with the ruler.
Built as always in 1420, it was first destroyed in 1422. Rebuilt several times, what we see today is a 1798 building, the fruit of a massive restoration following a devastating fire that razed down much of the Inner Court.
It was conceived as the largest palace of the Inner Court to better welcome the Emperor and his designated consorts at night, however, its structure too often needed repair and over time proved not a good fit for the sovereign's sacred sleep. Moreover, since a few Emperors died here on their deathbeds, later rulers struggled to continue resting in the place. In the end, the Qing began to host banquets and held meetings instead of sleeping here.
➜ Today, together with the other two halls of the Inner Court, it hosts a permanent exhibition about life in the Forbidden City.
The Hall of Union (交泰殿 Jiaotaidian)
You may remember that the second hall in the Outer Court was much smaller than the other two - same in the Inner Court.
The Hall of Union symbolized the "union" of Heaven and Earth and of the Emperor and the Empress. Here, the Empress would come to celebrate her birthday and accept the salutes of the concubines. Later during the Qing, the Hall also became a storage for official seals, only to be displayed on specific days. Seldomly, the Emperor would come here to pay his respects to the seals, which today are hosted in the museum hall of the Palace of Tranquil Longevity (Inner Court).
The building you see now was erected first in the 16th century but now belongs to 1798, reconstructed after that devastating fire we mentioned.
The Palace of Earthly Tranquility (宁宫 Kunninggong)
We have reached the last hall in the Inner Court - its name recalls the Earth, alias the realm of the Emperor, and it was where the Empress would sleep during the Ming.
Built as usual in 1420 but rebuilt in 1798 after the fire, the Palace saw the last Ming Empress commit suicide in 1644 when the Dynasty fell, and after that it ceased to be a sleeping residence. Instead, it became a shamanic temple to embrace the new cults brought in by the new Manchu Dynasty, the Qing. Occasionally, it also hosted ceremonies such as weddings (Puyi's wedding was the last one to occur here).
Signs of its more recent purpose are the sundial and the stone base outside it - the stone base, especially, is what remains of a shamanic sacred pole.
MORE TO SEE IN THE FORBIDDEN CITY AND SUGGESTED ITINERARIES
We are officially done visiting the most important sights in the Outer and Inner Courts! Does your tour finish here? Not necessarily! There are still many buildings you can check, however, the ones we described were the most sensational and needed a few more details to be understood.
Before leaving you with a couple of suggested itineraries, here are a few more places (all in the Inner Court) you may decide to focus on:
The Hall of Mental Cultivation (养心殿 Yangxindian)
This building in the Inner Court may not be the most magnificent but, believe it or not, for a while it was the true center of power in the Empire! Find it west of the main halls, on the south.
This Hall came later, in the 16th century (what you see now is a more recent version), and acquired importance only during the Qing. In fact, from the late 18th century, it became the Emperor's main residence, where he conducted daily tasks and often slept. Three Emperors died here.
It appears as a huge space with several rooms (area between four pillars, remember?), and its structure was considered easy to manage. I strongly suggest you check it out because is one of the few places in the City where it's easy to understand how daily life must have been in dynastic China!
Each area had its own purposes: the rear side hosted the Emperor's bedroom, while the central portion was used to host officials and ministers. Specifically, the so-called "West Warmth Chamber" was used by the Emperor, while the "East Warmth Chamber" became notorious in the 1800s when Empress Dowager Cixi began to use it to conduct state affairs, hidden behind a silk screen because she was technically not supposed to do that!
Here, on February 12th, 1912, the Emperor Dowager signed the abdication declaration on behalf of Puyi, the last child Emperor.
Imperial Garden (御花园 Yuhuayuan)
If you're used to European royal residences, then the sight of a garden in the Forbidden City won't surprise you. Indeed, like every other sovereign, the Chinese Emperor liked to enjoy a moment of rest in his own locus amenus with his Empress and concubines.
The Imperial Garden, alias a once-private green area, can be found just outside the Gate of Heavenly Tranquility, up north - you'll likely find it on your way to the exit.
It's the typical Asian-style garden with several structures and artificial additions - this one includes some twenty buildings and an artificial hill. Also, you can expect every tree you encounter to be several decades if not centuries old! The artificial hill is called "Hill of Accumulated Elegance" 堆秀山 and, as you may notice, hosts a pavilion on its top: there, the Emperor would enjoy the scenery and detach himself from reality for a little while.
Of its many buildings, only one is located on the central axis: it is called "Hall of Imperial Peace" 钦安门. On the four corners of the garden are four pavilions, each symbolizing a season.
The Gate of Divine Prowess (神武门 Shenwumen)
Our very last stop is the exit gate of the Forbidden City - a place that actually used to be the main entrance for regular workers in the City and that today bids farewell to all tourists.
Built for the first time in 1420 and then recently rebuilt, it once had a drum and a bell to beat time in the city. Managed by the Imperial Guards, it was where dozens of potential concubines made their first entrance to the Forbidden City, hoping to be liked by the Emperor and begin their social climb at the court.
Suggested Itineraries to explore the Forbidden City
Time to wrap up our visit!
As I mentioned, the Forbidden City is enormous, so don't expect to see it all in one run - even if you plan to spend the entire day inside, you won't probably manage to check every building.
The sights we went through here guarantee you don't miss anything important and gain a good understanding of what was happening in the City. However, you could decide to linger more in the Inner Court or dedicate half of your visit to exhibitions - this is 100% your choice!
To help you make better decisions, here are two suggested itineraries for you - one includes the main highlights, and the other contains some more gems to check:
⚪Itinerary 1 - The Central Axis (duration: 3 to 4 hours) |
Tian'anmen - Meridian Gate - Hall of Supreme Harmony - Hall of Central Harmony - Hall of Preserving Harmony - Gate of Heavenly Purity - Palace of Heavenly Purity - Hall of Union - Palace of Earthly Tranquility - Hall of Mental Cultivation - Imperial Garden - Gate of Divine Prowess |
⚪ Itinerary 2 - Central Axis + Additions (duration: 4 to 6 hours) |
Tian'anmen - Meridian Gate - Hall of Supreme Harmony - Hall of Central Harmony - Hall of Preserving Harmony - Gate of Heavenly Purity - Palace of Heavenly Purity - Hall of Union - Palace of Earthly Tranquility - Hall of Mental Cultivation - Palace of Celestial Favor (Inner Court) - Palace of Eternal Harmony (Inner Court) - Palace of Great Benevolence (Inner Court) - Palace of Prolonging Happiness (Inner Court) - Clock and Watch Museum (south of the Hall of Ancestral Worship, Inner Court) - Imperial Garden - Gate of Divine Prowess |
The Forbidden City in Beijing: Plan Your Visit
HOW TO GET TO THE FORBIDDEN CITY
Access to the Forbidden City occurs from Tian'anmen, the iconic gate from which the famous square takes its name. There is no other access and, even if it were one, this would still be the best to enjoy your visit at its fullest.
Remember that access to Tiananmen Square is subject to restrictions and you must reserve a (free) spot. Search for "Tiananmen Square" on WeChat, click on the first result, then on the first blue button to proceed. Otherwise, try this option. In case you opt for a Forbidden City guided tour or for a ticket booking service, this normally includes the Square. You don't need access to Tiananmen Square to visit the Forbidden City, the gate entrance is outside the restricted area.
Reaching the main entrance to the Forbidden City is quite easy, as it is well-served by public transportation.
● By bus: there are several lines bringing you close to the City. Try 1, 52, and J1.
Note that taking buses may be tricky for tourists, as Google Maps is only good for walking. If you have an iPhone, use Apple Maps to navigate your way, otherwise opt for the metro. Learn more about how to move around in China in this complete guide for first timers!
● By metro: using the metro is probably the most convenient way, as they are fast, cheap, and efficient (they can be crowded though, but that's true for basically everything in China!). If you wish to access the City first thing, opt for Line 1, stop Tiananmen East (Exit C). Otherwise, if you plan to stop by Tiananmen Square before you go, opt for Line 2, stop Qianmen (exit B or C). Note that in this latter case, it would take you some 30 minutes to walk to the entrance gate if you haven't booked your access to Tiananmen Square.
● By taxi: if you plan to reach your destination by taxi, this is what you should insert when booking your ride: 天安门 (Tian'anmen). English should work as well in this case. Expect the driver to leave you where they can, the area can get hyper-crowded! Check this complete guide for first timers in China to learn how to book a taxi ride!
OPENING HOURS
The Forbidden City has accommodating opening hours that allow you to visit it thoroughly without rushing.
April 1st - October 31st | November 1st - March 31st |
08:30 AM - 5:00 PM | 08:30 AM - 16:30 AM |
Closed on Mondays | Closed on Mondays |
However, since it tends to close on the early side in the afternoon, I definitely suggest you opt for an early morning start if it's your first time visiting the complex!
TICKETS AND HOW TO BUY THEM
Visiting the Forbidden City is a convenient dream - as everywhere else in China, entrance fees are super affordable (especially for Westerners) and inclusive, and truly allow everyone to enjoy a visit.
Here is an overview of what to expect:
April 1st - October 31st | November 1st - March 31st |
60 RMB (or circa EUR 7,90 / USD 8,25 / GBP 6,55) | 40 RMB (or circa EUR 5,25 / USD 5,50 / GBP 4,35) |
➜ Additionally, you may decide to add another small ticket for visiting the Treasure Gallery and the Clock and Watch Museum (both inside the Forbidden City complex): this will cost you 10 RMB (EUR 1,30 / USD 1,40 / GBP 1,10) each, no matter the season. If you plan to spend at least five hours in the City, then opt for it!
How to buy tickets and tips
Luckily, purchasing tickets for the Forbidden City is getting easier by the day! However, being one of the most popular tourist attractions in the world and the most popular in China, it can be stressful to find available tickets, especially if you visit it in high season.
Let's proceed step by step. Here is how you can buy them:
On their official website: that's the easiest and most convenient way. Also, the website is fully available in English and very easy to navigate. Buy your tickets here.
On Trip: if you are more familiar with Trip and prefer to use it, you can purchase tickets on the platform for no additional costs. Buy your tickets here.
➜ Tickets cannot be bought on site. To access the Forbidden City, you shall show your pre-purchased tickets to the staff at the Meridian Gate, right after passing through Tian'anmen. Note that tickets are nominal, and you are required to provide a valid ID (passport for foreigners) when you book them and at the Meridian Gate.
Now, here is what you need to know to plan your visit:
Tickets can only be purchased online, at least one day before your visit. You cannot decide to visit the City last minute but you should plan a bit.
Tickets only become available seven days in advance. This means that you cannot plan your visit ages before you actually go there.
Tickets are likely to sell out at light speed in high season! Be very prepared for that, because it is especially true in July and August. This unfortunately means that you may not be able to reserve a spot in time before they are all gone.
➊ What to do if you don't manage to find available tickets?
Don't worry, it happened to me as well. If the "regular" tickets are all gone, you can rely on agencies to book them for you as they have dedicated access to more tickets. This may or may not include a guided tour and a visit to Tiananmen Square.
Expect a slightly higher price, because you'll have to pay for the booking service and the guided tour if you opt for it. Always on the cheap side though. Very important note: these tours are normally meant for foreigners, as they are booked on foreign platforms - if you're traveling with Chinese citizens, make sure they can access the tour. Most of the time they cannot, as accessing lines for foreigners and Chinese are different.
VISITING THE FORBIDDEN CITY: FAQ
If you've come this far in this guide, you may already know a few things about the Forbidden City and its functionings, however, let's consider a few very practical aspects that can turn incredibly useful during your trip to Beijing:
● Is it worth it to visit the Forbidden City? Visiting the Forbidden City can be quite stressful, especially in summer and high season in general. Also, tickets go sold out very quickly and you may struggle a bit to purchase yours. So is it worth it to visit the palace complex? Absolutely, undoubtedly yes. The Forbidden City is a symbol of the history of dynastic China, and if you see it, you can really grasp what a machine the Empire was and how much it impacted and still impacts Chinese people's lives.
● Should you add the Forbidden City to your travel plan as a first timer in Beijing? Yes, yes, yes! No trip to Beijing would ever be complete without seeing Tiananmen Square and the Forbidden City, it's totally worth it to invest a good portion of your schedule for them.
● How long does it take to visit the Forbidden City? It really depends on you and your preferences. If you wish to see the essentials, then 3-4 hours will be enough. If you plan to delve deeper into it, keep an entire day for your visit. In case you are traveling around China and visiting in high season, my suggestion is to plan a long morning (4-5 hours) inside it, then perhaps prolong if you can: in summer, the City can get excessively hot and crowded.
● Is the Forbidden City accessible or a good option for kids? Well, generally speaking, China is not accessible in the way we may intend it. I couldn't find specific information on their official website, but this specific complex seemed to me more accessible than others in the country. Don't expect to be able to see everything if you have physical disabilities though. As for kids, the Forbidden City is an amazing place to be if they show interest in the local culture or have approached it before! However, the immense crowds may annoy and stress them in the long run.
● Will there be information and/or labels in English? First of all, the Forbidden City has an official website with an English version, which is already amazing. Then, yes, you'll find signs and labels with an English translation. Unfortunately, at least when I last visited it, no sort of English book/guide was available in their shops.
● If you visit in summer (especially July and August), expect to find a very crowded Forbidden City. If you are familiar already with tourism in China, you may know this means that things can sometimes get quite overwhelming. Also, expect people to show off the "push approach" (physically pushing to reach a better spot) at popular sites. Not impossible to manage obviously, just get there prepared!
● Do not forget to bring your passport with you! This is something you learn after a couple of days in China, but just in case, be sure not to forget it because your ticket will be nominal, and without a valid ID, you won't be granted access! Basically, your passport will be your ticket. Also, expect airport-like security checks together with passport controls.
I hope you found this guide useful! Need more help planning your visit and your trip to China? Check one of these options: |
CONTACT ME (or leave a comment below) |
Thank you for reading!
References:
Jasper Becker, City of Heavenly Tranquility, Penguin Group, 2008.
Jonathan Fenby, The Great Wonders of China, Thames and Hudson, 2024.
Stephen G. Haw, Beijing: A Concise History, Routledge, 2007.
Sheila Hollihan-Elliot, Art and Architecture in China, Mason Crest, 2008.
John Keay, China: A History, Harper Press, 2008.
Roderick MacFarquhar, The Forbidden City, Newsweek, 1975.
Geremie R. Barmé, The Forbidden City, Harvard University Press, 2008.
Nancy Shatzman Steinhardt, Chinese Architecture: A History, Princeton University Press, 2019.
TV Documentary: "The Forbidden City: Dynasty and Destiny"
北京故宫 on Baidu
一次玩个透 超详细的故宫游玩指南送给您 on Visit Beijing
Beijing Travel Guide - Forbidden City Documentary (Palace Museum) Part 1 on YouTube