What makes Normandy in the north of France unique? In this first chapter of The World in Pictures, with only ten shots we see if possible to visualize the essence of a region that knew multiple dominators, was in between two destinies and two nations, and has amazed and still amazes with its majestic cathedrals, wild coasts, picturesque landscape and flowery fields.
1# HALF-TIMBERED HOUSES
The first city one probably encounters in Normandy is Rouen - the liveliest, biggest, and richest in cultural heritage of the entire region. Wandering around here comes easy, as the city's historical heart is fully walkable. Where streets narrow down and asphalt turns into cobbles, your eyes are filled with the colorful sight of the half-timbered houses - a recurring presence in France, the past that found new life.
Travel Tips: in Rouen, check Rue Saint-Romain, Rue Damiette, Rue des Chanoines, and the Gros-Horloge area for the best half-timbered streets.
2# MEDIEVAL MAJESTY
With more than one hundred exemplars, France is a land of cathedrals. Normandy does its part with almost ten of its own, Flamboyant Gothic the main protagonist. In Rouen, the medieval architectural gem is more than just a white star standing out among lines of half-timbered houses and brutalist buildings. Here, the cathedral guards over the tombs of the Normans, the people who came to France and conquered it before marking the beginning of a new era for England at Hastings.
Travel Tips: Rouen Cathedral is probably the highest point of medieval architecture in Normandy. However, the cathedrals of Bayeux, Coutances, Evreux, and Lisieux also show impressive mastery. In Rouen, check Saint-Maclou Church for another spired bliss.
3# HEARTY AND LOCAL
Visiting and exploring can make one hungry, and France is known for letting nobody down on appetite. In Normandy, the scene is forever stolen by the Galettes Normandes, a type of savory crêpes served square-shaped and usually filled with eggs, cheese, and ham. The Galettes are ubiquitous and made following a strictly traditional or occasionally more modern recipe.
Travel Tips: If you are staying in Rouen or its proximities, treat yourself with a Galette Normande at Crêperie Rouennaise or Crêperie Roland.
4# 19TH-CENTURY REVOLUTION
After a few days traveling through this region, one understands why Normandy was the cradle of Impressionism. A revolutionary lens on the world, this artistic movement that shook the 1800s found inspiration in picturesque landscapes, sun-kissed beaches, and serene fields. Today, part of that untamed, rusty soul of Normandy that Monet, Pisarro, Boudin and the others saw may be gone, but its impression remains on canvas.
Travel Tips: The Maison et Jardins de Claude Monet in Giverny is among the most popular Impressionism destinations in the region and for a reason: the visit is a veritable immersion in a Monet's painting. The Musée des Beaux-Arts of Rouen is a more overlooked option but for no reason: the visit is free and the collections are a true delight.
5# WILD, WINDY COAST
From canvas to reality. From Rouen, the right way is up north. There, the wind grows stronger and the coast greets you with blinding yet cool sunlight in summer and a gloomy yet theatrical patina in winter. There, Monet believed he had found the power in nature that he was looking for. There, we are reminded that France is a nation that touches the Mediterranean but faces the impetus of the North Sea as well. Étretat is the local gem.
Travel Tips: Étretat has all the characteristics of a thought-inspiring hideout and it's easy to imagine why it influenced artists. However, today it can get crowded with tourists. Consider Cap Fagnet (north of Rouen), Baie d'Écalgrain or Nez de Jobourg (both north of Caen) for a more tranquil experience.
6# A WALK DOWN HISTORY ROAD
Moving westward, the proximity with England shows its roots in history. Caen may have been their political and strategic core, but Bayeux is where the Normans left their most impressive traces. The Gothic cathedral and that medieval piece of textile mastery called Bayeux Tapestry enlighten any Normandy trip. A stroll down the main road - Rue Saint-Jean - brings you back to the D-Day and if you close your eyes, you feel the power of the moment, the soldiers rushing to freedom, for freedom.
Travel Tips: Besides being a protagonist of the Norman Era and of D-Day, Bayeux is also a nice little town with a few gems to discover. Start your tour with a relaxing stroll around its narrow streets and enjoy the view from its canal. Check the Maison à Pans de Bois de la rue des Cuisiniers for a beautiful example of a well-preserved half-timbered house. Stop in one of its cafés at the crossroads where Rue Saint-Jean turns into Rue Saint-Martin, then head to the cathedral and pay it a visit. Nearby is the Bayeux Tapestry Museum, a must-see.
7# TRADITION AND OLD-FASHIONED SIGNS
As one moves from one place to another, a whole other side of Normandy opens quickly up: the small town world. Northern France bursts with car-free, medieval-styled, half-timbered urban centers where life is slower and streets are cobbled. Places where to spend a few hours walking in local boutiques, enjoying the traditional cuisine, visiting stoney churches, and grabbing your daily dose of butter at the local boulangerie.
Travel Tips: Boulangeries (literally "bakeries" in French) are omnipresent in France and a real institution. Apart from the highly popular baguette or pain au chocolat, there is much more to try. On the sweet side, the viennoise au chocolat is my personal favourite, but pain au raisin and éclair are also great options. For something savory, opt for a tarte, a quiche Lorraine, or a cheese-filled loaf.
8# A PAST NEVER TOO FAR GONE
If Bayeux awakes one's memory, the D-Day Beaches of Northern Normandy are a place for remembrance. At a step distance from the United Kingdom, on this coast the United States flag often dominates and gratitude for a momentous liberation is still strong. Some prefer to bathe where soldiers rushedly disembarked on the unlucky lands of Europe, but some others choose to remember - the roaring sound of the sea numbs any noise.
Travel Tips: If one says D-Day, Omaha Beach is probably the first place that comes to mind and if you decide to peregrine around the D-Day Beaches, you can't miss it - the American Cemetery overlooking the cliff is where one can reflect and respect. But they all deserve a visit: Juno Beach is where Canadian soldiers set foot in Normandy, Utah Beach was assigned to the Americans, Gold and Sword Beach went to the British Forces.
9# BEING FRENCH
Normandy may have been a point of contention and lived its own destiny in the hands of the Normans but its heart today is fully, intensely French. There is no lack of proof of this: one is undoubtedly the marinière style, a constant presence in boutiques and around the streets, a quintessential French fashion trend embodied by the blue and white striped tees. You can even get one in souvenir form. Honfleur and Deauville are where this style becomes reality.
Travel Tips: France is renowned for its quality boutiques and that includes souvenir shops. There's really no need to prefer cheesy chain stores and industrial-made products - they are rarely less expensive anyway. Mont-Saint-Michel isle is where you are most likely to find tourist traps.
10# AN ICON OF BEAUTY
No journey through Normandie would be complete without paying a visit to le Mont-Saint-Michel, yet another stronghold of medieval architectural mastery. An example of how humans can merge with nature without disrupting it, on a tidal little isle lie the vestiges of a Christian abbey, the glory of a religion once strong and mighty. At times immersed in fog, submerged in high water or embraced by golden fields, at Mont-Saint-Michel is time to bid farewell to the region - Bretagne is at the abbey's doors.
Travel Tips: Mont-Saint-Michel is unique, however, being so popular, it is also extremely crowded. If you really want your visit to be pleasant, plan the day in advance, pre-book your tickets, keep at least four hours of your time, and read a guide before going - once there, everything feels rushed and confusing at times.
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