With its century-long history, this cathedral is the perfect spot for Gothic architecture and medieval history enthusiasts, as well as for everyone who hopes to have a delightful break in this luminous and imponent building.
Located right at the heart of the Norman city, Notre-Dame de Rouen is free entry to all visitors, can be seen in 30 minutes, but might need 1 full hour to be fully appreciated!
A meeting point for France and the United Kingdom, the Rouen Cathedral is where visitors can perceive how much the destinies of these two nations had been intertwined in the past and maybe add some context to more recent events. In this guided tour, you will be given all the tools to delve deeper into this and other aspects of this Gothic cathedral's history!
In this article:
Rouen Cathedral: Why Visit
Rouen Cathedral: Your Visit
Rouen Cathedral: Plan Your Visit
Rouen Cathedral: After Your Visit
Rouen Cathedral: Why Visit
HISTORY OF NOTRE-DAME CATHEDRAL IN ROUEN
The first bishops of Rouen date back to the dawn of Christianity in Roman times, and since every bishopric seat needed a cathedral, Rouen built its own very early, during the 4th century CE. Very little remains of those remote vestiges, but the cathedral's location did never change, as it was custom during the Middle Ages.
The first structures were surely much simpler and smaller than the current one and they all became victims of natural calamities and of the passing of time, slowly damaged and ultimately ransacked by the Vikings during their incursion in Rouen in 841 CE.
Destruction left space for years of uncertainties and instability for Normandy, Rouen and its cathedral and it was not before 911 CE, with the Treaty of Saint-Clair-Sur-Epte, that peace was finally restored in the area. The Treaty indeed stated that Rouen was to become the capital of the newborn Duchy of Normandy, a possession given to the Vikings and their leader Rollo in the hope of stopping their devastation across the region.
After becoming the capital of the Duchy of Normandy, Rouen had its cathedral rebuilt in Romanesque style (11th century) and consecrated in the presence of William the Conqueror on October 1st, 1063 (Some parts of this version, such as in the crypt, are still visible today). Before that, in 912, Rollo, whose empty tomb lies in the cathedral, is said to have been baptized here, ready to become a true Christian leader.
When the Gothic style took over in Europe it became such an enormous trend that every bishopric seat wanted to have its own Gothic cathedral and compete with the others. Projects in Rouen started during the 12th century, but the final trigger was the devastating fire of 1200 and the annexation of Normandy to France in 1204: such big changes required a new civic symbol and by the end of the century the cathedral had a new face.
Renaissance, a new era, called for more renovations, so Rouen picked up the compass and started planning some additions to its Notre-Dame. This is when the tower now known as Butter Tower (Tour de Beurre) saw the light (1485 ca.): it was given this name because in order to raise money for its construction the donors were granted the possibility of consuming milk and butter during Lent, something normally not allowed to Christians for penitence reasons.
Over the centuries, despite not being a capital anymore, Rouen gained recognition across Europe and France for being a wealthy trade center. Its cathedral, therefore, was imprinted in the minds of many locals and foreigners and became a symbol of beauty and devotion.
In 1562, when the Huguenots, heroes of the young Protestantism in a mostly-Catholic Europe, were in a full fight against the French Catholic monarchy, the Rouen Cathedral became an easy and coveted target. The Huguenots ransacked the Catholic symbol, devastating the facade and either destroying or decapitating the statues.
During the 1789 Revolution, Notre-Dame was turned into a Temple of Reason (a sort of de-Christianization of churches), and that helped preserve its structure and content. However, the 17-18th centuries were not a fortunate period for Gothic cathedrals, as people did not feel a strong connection with medieval times and focused on new constructions or on heavily modifying the old ones. Notre-Dame Cathedral was damaged several times, either by human hands or by natural causes, reaching contemporaneity intact in its overall structure but different in so many ways.
The last major restorations took place after the end of World War II, when the cathedral was hit a few times by bombs and left partially in ruins. During the night between 18 and 19 April 1944 Rouen and Notre-Dame were severely bombed. Much of the aisles, chapels, and spires were damaged or destroyed by a total of 7 bombs - the one that landed in the choir never exploded.
It was only in 1956 that the cathedral was consecrated again and reopened, now fully restored. Paintings were finally returned in the 1970s, but catastrophes seemed to be always behind the corner. On December 26, 1999, Notre-Dame was damaged by a storm, leaving it constantly in need of reparation but forever beautiful in its resilience.
A RESTING PLACE FOR TWO NATIONS - THE BURIALS
The heart of Richard Lionheart. The tomb of Empress Matilda of England. The resting place of Arthur I, claimant for the throne of England. The grave of Henry The Young King ..... of England.
When visitors explore the Cathedral of Rouen, they encounter several burials, often in the form of the so-called recumbents (or, in French, gisants), a name used for medieval and Early Modern tomb effigies depicting the deceased in a lying state, forever imprinted in eternal repose. This was very common for Catholic churches - and especially for cathedrals - as, since the dawn of Christianity, it was believed that being buried in those sacred places and close to the tombs of saints or relics could guarantee protection and higher chances of salvation.
Anyway, what one should really notice during their visit is that, despite being in France, the most important tombs in Notre-Dame of Rouen belong to English monarchs or nobles.
As we mentioned above, Rouen and the whole of Normandy were subjects of harsh Viking invasions during the Early Middle Ages. The Vikings or Normans - men of the north - came on the coasts of France in several waves from 790 CE to the early 1000s.
The game-changer in the invasions period was a Viking commander who you may be already familiar with thanks to the award-winning TV series, The Vikings. Rollo, (who historically has no familiar bond with Ragnar Lothbrock!) became powerful enough to legally obtain control over the region, which was turned into the Duchy of Normandy - the land of the Normans. The capital of the Duchy was established right here, in Rouen.
One of his most famous successors was to be Duke William II, better known as King William I the Conqueror (1028-1087) - or the one who contributed to the creation of modern England. After having fought his way to the Duchy of Normandy, William was clever enough to expand its borders and make them more stable. By 1050 CE his quest was completed and he could focus on what would become his greatest achievement: the conquest of England at Hastings (1066 CE).
The Normans-turned-English only departed from Rouen, Normandy and France after losing the Hundred Years' War (1337-1453), and after almost seven centuries of intersected history, traces of one nation can still be inevitably found in the other and vice versa.
To understand how strong this connection was and for how long it remained relevant, we can notice that the heart of Richard Lionheart - a notably English figure - was still buried in Rouen at the time of his death in 1199, while his other remains are scattered around France.
Here is an overview of the notable figures currently or formerly buried in Notre-Dame and linked to the Anglo-French history of the Cathedral:
Rollo, Duke (Count) of Normandy (ca. 850 - ca. 930) and his wife, Poppa (b. 880, death unknown)
William Longsword, Duke (Count) of Normandy (893-942)
Empress Matilda, claimant to the English throne (1102-1167) and her son William Longespee (1136-1164)
Henry the Young King of England (lived 1155-1183)
Richard I the Lionheart (heart of), King of England (lived 1157-1199)
Arthur I Plantagenet, Duke of Brittany (1187-1203) - commemorative plaque
John of Lancaster, Duke of Bedford (1389-1435) - commemorative plaque
THE MONET SERIES: ROUEN CATHEDRAL AND ITS IMPACT ON ART HISTORY
Renowned across France and Europe for being one of the most stunning examples of Gothic architectural mastery and elegance, in Modern times Notre-Dame of Rouen attracted artists and literati, who were fascinated by its forms and luminous sinuosity of the interiors.
David Roberts, William Turner, Camille Pisarro were among those whose imagination was touched by the cathedral, but it was painter Claude Monet who gave it a parallel life in art history: a high symbol of medieval artistic expression and now an indelible impressionist subject.
Indeed, in the years 1892-1894 Claude Monet created a 30-painting series - today simply known as the Rouen Cathedral Series - depicting Rouen Cathedral and focusing on the western portal and the Court of Albane.
⚫But why did Monet choose Rouen? First, it is important to know that back in the 1890s the artist was in his 50s and therefore his art had already reached a good level of maturity (he would live until 1926, eventually dying at the age of 86). At that time, Monet, as a painter living in a fast-changing world and an exponent of Impressionism, was fully immersed in an assiduous investigation of color and light in his work. This was made in an attempt to distance painting from both the old academic ways and the newborn photography, which was quickly rising in popularity and stealing from painters the role of truthfully representing reality.
Amid this scenario, in the late 19th century Rouen and its cathedral were well-known among the people of France and beyond, thanks to the multiplication of postcards and pictures. Monet, who in that period was living in the near Giverny, took the opportunity to explore the Norman city and see if it could become a protagonist of his art and his research. It indeed could.
In fact, the very structure of Gothic architecture and the peculiar position of the cathedral represented a unique opportunity for Monet to depict lights and colors in an unprecedented fashion. The artist wished to prove that the same place could actually diverge in the way it looked if painted under different lights, throughout the four seasons and with changing weather conditions. His hope was to go beyond the fascinating but somehow plain "postcard view" - frontal and static, presented under a fabricated light to highlight its features - and show the multiple shades of reality.
To do so, he would paint the series from the window of his rented apartment, located right in front of the cathedral (in a still-existing building, at number 31 of Place de la Cathédrale), before moving to a very closeby place, later demolished, at rue du Grand-Pont 81. Each painting would be first sketched in loco, then reworked in his workshop.
The series was incredibly successful, but making the 30 paintings meant hard work for the painter, who captured the Gothic cathedral throughout the years at dawn, in the morning light, at noon, in full sun and at dusk.
Today, his point of view is partially lost: most of the buildings that composed the square and surroundings of the cathedral are no more, either replaced or destroyed by the WWII bombings. However, their subject remains untouched, forever imprinted as it appeared in the late 19th century, gifting us with a beautiful example of how art can be turned into another form of art and making it even more worth a visit!
⚫Do you plan to see the paintings? Unfortunately, while the 30-piece series was created in the same place, today the canvases are scattered around the world. In case you are planning to see a few in real-life, you may find a small selection on permanent display at the Musée d'Orsay in Paris, while if you stay in Rouen, the Musée des Beaux-Arts counts one in its collections.
Rouen Cathedral: Your Visit
THE BASICS
What: Medieval cathedral built in Flamboyant Gothic style
Why: External Gothic facade, Gothic interior, sculptures, tombs, significance for art history
Who: Archbishop Gautier de Coutances (commissioner)
Building Period: 12th-15th century (current appearance)
Current Status: badly damaged during the 16th and 17th century, bombed during the Second World War. Many of the original parts have been replaced, Gothic structure mostly intact.
ARCHITECTURE & EXTERIOR
Place de la Cathédrale
Rouen Cathedral is located in Place de la Cathédrale, the very core of the Gallo-Roman settlement of the area: a 4th century BCE castrum (normally a military base that slowly acquired town-like characteristics).
The appearance of the square changed over the years, eventually ending up enclosed within walls in the 16th century and then given a bit more air in the Revolution years. The 18th century was also when the cemetery, originally annexed to the cathedral, was removed for hygiene and aesthetic reasons.
Today, the buildings that keep company to the cathedral in Place de la Cathédrale are hardly ancient, a consequence of both bombings and recurrent changes in urban style and trends. If you wish to check the oldest spot here, you should look for the Tourist Office (formerly a finance office), which was built in 1509-1540 and is the oldest surviving Renaissance monument in the city.
➊ READ NEXT: The complete cultural guide to Rouen's historical city center, where you will also find information about Place de la Cathédrale and its landmarks
The Towers
The main structure of the cathedral is flanked by two towers, the Saint-Romain and the Butter Tower (Tour de Beurre).
La Tour de Saint-Romain (on the left) is the oldest component of the facade, dating back to around 1145. Initially, this tower was most likely used for defensive reasons, then, once the city needed no more defense from the outside, it was integrated into the cathedral and given a religious significance. In fact, the top floor, which different style is clearly recognizable, was built right after the definitive departure of the English (1468-78). The tower was severely damaged in 1944 during the bombings.
The other tower, the Tour de Beurre (on the right) came later - its construction dating back to 1485-1506 - and was built with the aid of the citizenry in exchange for permission to eat butter during Lent, when Christians would not be allowed to do so (another explanation exists, and would involve the color of the tower, which is yellowy like butter).
Western Façade & Sides
The façade, just like the whole complex, presents a mixture of styles and epochs. Two of the portals are still built in a primitive Gothic style (1170-1180) while the porch is Gothic but a later declination of it, and several parts were added only much later or were replaced over time (the rose window is now at its fourth version, the previous one having been destroyed during the bombings).
➊ The Saint-Jean (St. John) Portal (on the left) is the only one to have been spared recent restorations simply because it has been already restored during the 18th century. Events narrated there are from the life of John the Baptist, St. John Evangelist, and the Baptism of Christ.
➊ The Notre-Dame Portal occupies the central part of the façade and it was heavily attacked during the Wars of Religion (16th century) when its statues were mutilated or damaged, then restored again one century later. It includes scenes from the Old Testament, then patriarchs and prophets of Christianity.
➊ The Saint-Etienne (St. Stephen) Portal (on the right) suffered the same fate as Notre-Dame, and during the Wars of Religion the images of St. Stephen did not have a good time.
And there are more portals on the sides, all equally damaged or destroyed over the centuries, then replaced by more recent versions but keeping a few 13th-century parts.
➊ The most majestic is the Portail des Libraires (Booksellers Portal) on the North side (or on the left from the main portal) , its name likely deriving from the booksellers once stationed in the surroundings or from an ancient library now disappeared. This portal was once the entranceway for clergy.
➊ The Portail de la Calende (Calende Portal) on the south (or on the right from the main portal) takes its name from the ecclesiastical meetings taking place during the Calends in the area - it was heavily restored in the 19th century.
The Cour D'Albane
The Cour D'Albane, one of the protagonists of Monet's Rouen Cathedral Series, is a beautiful spot adjacent to the cathedral's main building that, at least at the time of my visit, could not be accessed.
Restored to its actual appearance in recent times, this place is a nicely-curated garden enclosed by a cloister, an internal structure composed of a monumental covered gallery and a courtyard to be found in monastic sites or in other religious buildings such as cathedrals.
In the case of the Court Albane, this Gothic structure is ancient (13th century but its origin is probably even more remote) but incomplete and shows signs of parts that were probably designed but never built.
In case you don't manage to enter, at just a few steps distance there is a small area where you can relax in the shade sitting on a bench with the Cour still in good sight!
INTERIOR
As for many cathedrals and basilicas in Europe, the interior of Notre-Dame of Rouen today looks like an intricate puzzle of chapels and elements and a complex mixture of styles and centuries.
Sometimes this can be quite intimidating, but it's just proof of how much history is enclosed in these walls - we don't necessarily have to check every single stone to grasp the beauty of this place! Personally, I spent most of my time there staring at the amazing light coming from the windows and its mesmerizing reflections, that's what never ceases to impress me about Gothic cathedrals.
But let's have a tour of what is inside this dim shrine:
➊ The central nave is the first thing that you see at your entrance - it still contains parts of the ancient Romanesque church which was destroyed in 1200. Now built in Gothic style, its vaults are decorated with foliage and images such as the Virgin with the Child and the Paschal Lamb, while on the ground are epitaphs dedicated to notable archbishops of the past.
➊ The interior of the Saint-Romain tower hosts the baptistery on the first level, with parts from different centuries (13th, 14th and till the 18th), while on the second level it contains the treasure. Finally, above it is the largest of the church's bells, the Joan of Arc.
The Chapels
➊ Starting from the north aisle (so basically on the left side when you enter the Cathedral from the main portals), it is worth a visit the Chapel of Saint-Juliene which houses the mutilated 13th century-tympanum and contains paintings from the 15th and 16th centuries. The statue of Christ in Glory that you may notice here was created in the 12th century and its features are a rarity: made of Caen stone, it represents one of the few examples of Romanesque style in the cathedral that survived to this day.
➊ On the southern aisle (on your right when you enter), we may start from the Chapel of Saint-Etienne, hosted within the Butter Tower. As with anything else in the cathedral, this chapel is composed of multiple elements from several epochs. What makes it particularly interesting is the fact that, originally, it used to be a Parish church, enclosed in the cathedral only after the Revolution. It contains tombstones of canons and clergy staff.
➊ The Chapel of Saint-Pierre "Du Batiment" houses a wooden model of Notre-Dame, while the Chapel of Sainte-Catherine was the only one in the southern aisle to be spared by the 1944 bombings and it still houses 17th-century furniture.
➊ Last on the southern aisle to notice is the Chapel of Sainte-Marguerite, which contains the statue of "Notre-Dame du Voeu" (Our Lady of the Vow), a masterpiece of the Rouen sculptor Felix Lecomte, made in 1777 to replace a 14th-century piece. There is a nice story surrounding the statue which made its replacement necessary: it is said that there should always be at least one candle lit in front of the statue (go check this!) to thank the Virgin for stopping the rage of the Black Death in 1348 - this tradition has been kept alive ever since and today the statue is a symbol of protection from catastrophes.
➊ In the Chapel of Saint-Pierre-Saint-Paul there is an inscription evoking the memory of Empress Matilda (1102-1167) (we mentioned her before!), a central figure in English medieval history and a claimant to the throne of England during a period of civil wars called the Anarchy. Her bones were transferred here in 1871.
The chapel also houses the tomb of Henri The Bonnechose, archbishop of Rouen and cardinal - the work, a masterpiece of 19th-century art, was exhibited at the Salon of 1891 before being moved here.
➊ The Chapel of the Virgin was completed between 1305 and 1315 and hosts monumental mausoleums from the 16th century, as well as recumbents of notable people from Rouen.
The Transept
The transept, the transversal area of the church that crosses the main nave, hosts the altar. As always, not everything that we see comes from medieval times, but some parts are in fact from the 13th and 14th century.
On the northern side of it (so on your left if you have your back turned on the main portals) is the "Librarians' Stairs", a beautiful stairway in Gothic style, not in use anymore.
Besides containing the only rose window with stained glass (destroyed during the bombings and then remade), the transept gives access to:
The Crypt
The crypt, a stone chamber built beneath the floor, in Rouen Cathedral can be accessed from the chapel of Sainte Joan d'Arc, in the transept.
Levelled and completed during the 13th century, for decades the crypt remained buried and covered before being brought to light again in 1931-34. For years, all that remained of the crypt was oral knowledge of its existence and a bunch of legends of its dimensions and underpasses it originally contained.
Today, we can still admire beautiful capitals from the 1150s. It hosts a few tombstones and the heart of King Charles V.
The Choir
Coming up from the crypt we can now go to the choir, an area that serves as a seating place for the clergy - today, you can still admire several 15th-century wooden stalls where people used to sit.
As it was custom, the choir used to be closed to external visitors and lay orants by a rood screen. Some fragments of the medieval gates are still visible in the Museum of Antiquities, while parts of a second screen (18th century, dismantled in 1884) are preserved in place.
Here we can see the high altar which has been - by now you can guess - substituted over time. The last one was destroyed by the bombings and the current one was built in the 1950s. Do not forget to notice the inscription at the base: it reports the original burial location of Charles V's heart, now in the crypt.
The Ambulatory and the Burials
Behind the high altar is the ambulatory, a place that was originally inaccessible to regular visitors and that opens on 3 chapels separated by large windows. It surrounds the choir.
Today, it houses original statues from the façade and the gisants (tombstones) of notable figures, each with its epitaph. This is not their original resting place, they have been moved here in 1956. Also, in most cases what we see today is not the first and original tombstone but a 13th or 14th-century replacement.
➊ If you wish to know why you are looking at the burials of Viking or English dukes and kings in a French cathedral, we have talked about this here. Otherwise, do not leave this area without noticing the recumbent tomb of Hugh of Amiens, archbishop of Rouen from 1130 to 1164. This magnificent piece is placed under an arch and embedded behind arcades. Built during the 12th century, this monument is the oldest gisant in the cathedral and a rare example of Romanesque style. Today, it hosts the remains of Rouen archbishop Maurice (died 1235) who took it as his own burial.
STAINED-GLASS WINDOWS
Stained-glass windows are characteristic of French Gothic architecture and were built across what is now France throughout the Middle Ages.
In Rouen Cathedral, during the centuries the windows shared the same fate as the whole building, being destroyed, replaced and restored over time. What we see today comes from a very long period - from 13th to 20th century, the most ancient parts belonging to the first reconstruction of the church after the devasting 1200 fire.
➊ The windows were actually installed as the construction works progressed and were created together with new chapels. Subjects are all religious-themed and often report stories from the saint a chapel has been dedicated to or from the life of Christ and the Virgin.
➊ I definitely suggest checking the panels that you may find all over the cathedral, narrating the story of saints represented in the windows - some are very funny and enjoyable!
In the 17th century, a change of trends and needs called for a massive replacement with colorless glasses, as people wanted a more illuminated cathedral. This lasted for two centuries, then in 1800s the stained-glass windows were restored all over the place, eventually damaged by the 1944 bombings.
While modern examples certainly preserve much charm, here are a few spots where to see the original medieval parts (as they then would be the inspiration for the modern examples):
➊ The north aisle houses the most ancient glass windows preserved in the entire Normandy (early 13th century), and the ambulatory houses some other notable 13th-century examples (windows of Saint-Julien l'Hospitalier)
➊ In the Chapel of the Virgin the windows you can see are from about 1310 and are particularly important because were installed here right after the reconstruction of the chapel in 1306. They do not show the life of Mary, as it would have been custom in previous centuries, but a celebration of the church of Rouen, a tangible proof of the changes of time and the secularization of the Church's interests.
➊ Last to mention here is the Chapel of Saint-Joseph, housing scenes from the life of Saint Romain, patron saint of Rouen. They were made in the early 1500s.
➊ Check the complete guide on the Parisian Sainte-Chapelle for another majestic example of medieval stained-glass windows ➊
Rouen Cathedral: Plan Your Visit
HOW TO REACH
The Cathedral is located right in Rouen's main square, at the heart of the old city centre - if in Rouen and visiting the old town, you will simply happen there while strolling around!
➊ On foot: Rouen's historical city centre can be easily walked through, with no need to take a bus or other means of transport. Seeing the whole thing should take you around 4 hours and everything is absolutely within reach!
➊ By bus/metro: Just in case you are coming from another side of the city, Rue du Général Leclerc and Rue de la République are the closest you can get to the Cathedral by bus. You can get off at metro stop Théâtre des Arts, then it's a 5-minute walk.
➊ By car: driving your car in Rouen city center is probably not the best idea, as the area is an LTZ zone and you might get a fine! Unfortunately, many of the parking lots around the historical center have a fee, so move towards Rue Poret de Blosseville to find free ones. From there, it's a 20-minute walk to the Cathedral, but in between there is a lot to see!
TICKETS & TIMETABLE
The Cathedral is free entry to all visitors with no ticket.
The Cathedral is open:
DAY | OPENING HOURS |
Monday | 2PM - 6PM |
Tuesday | 9AM - 12PM 2PM - 6PM |
Wednesday | 9AM - 12PM 2PM - 6PM |
Thursday | 9AM - 12PM 2PM - 6PM |
Friday | 9AM - 12PM 2PM - 6PM |
Saturday | 9AM - 6PM |
Sunday | 8AM - 6PM |
Public Holidays | 9AM - 12PM 2PM - 6PM |
➜ The shop is open:
On Mondays: from 2PM to 6PM
From Tuesday to Friday: from 10AM to 12PM - from 2PM to 6PM
On Saturdays: from 10AM to 6PM
On Sundays: from 12PM to 6PM
➜ Mass is celebrated (visit might be denied or is limited):
On Sundays: 8:30AM and 10:30AM
Tuesday to Saturday: at 10AM
➜ Official Website: Cathédrale Notre-Dame de Rouen